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Polaroid Of The Week: A Winter Sunrise In Germany

Polaroid of the week

polaroid of the week germany winter 2017

This week has been all about spending time with my family and about getting in shape – because I got a pretty last-minute opportunity to run a half marathon in Israel later this month! I’ve briefly mentioned my upcoming trip in my December Life Lately round-up, and I was already super excited for my return to Israel, but this race will make it even better. The marathon route goes along the Dead Sea – one of my favorite places in Israel – so I didn’t have to think long, even though I am admittedly not in the best shape I’ve ever been.

I didn’t run a single time during my week in Berlin, and couldn’t motivate myself to go for a run when I visited my brother for a couple of days afterwards, but now that I am back at my sister’s house I’ve taken my her dog Odie on a daily 5k (even though he’d gladly do a daily 10k) and have run two 10ks. Having Odie is my biggest motivation to run every day – I have to admit that the freezing temperatures are a huge turn-off for me but I am fighting through my reluctance to head out in the snow. The toughest run so far was a sunrise run in 13 F (-10 C) – even though the run through the quiet, snowy fields was beautiful, I’ve never run in cold weather like this – I think the coldest run so far had been 26 F (-3 C). It’s quite ironic that I am training for a desert race in freezing cold winter weather, but what doesn’t kill me makes me stronger, right? 🙂

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Polaroid Of The Week: Happy New Year from Berlin

Polaroid of the week

polaroid of the week germany berlin TV Tower

Happy New Year from Berlin!

My first Polaroid of 2017 is coming to you from Germany’s capital where I escaped to after spending the Holidays with my family. While I came to Berlin mainly to get some work done and catch up with friends, I managed to fit in quite a few fun activities – like visiting several of the city’s amazing Christmas markets, which I hadn’t done in over ten years. I have to admit that it felt a bit awkward at first in light of the recent terror attack, but I decided to adapt the ‘We won’t let terrorists ruin this joyful time of year for us’ attitude that the Berliners showed, who kept flocking to the Christmas markets.

Other than Christmas markets, I went on a bar crawl in Kreuzberg and took a friend who passed through town to the observation deck of the Park Inn hotel for a panoramic view of Berlin, climbed the 285 steps of the spiral staircase to the top of the Victory Column and revisited the East Side Gallery, the longest still standing piece of the Berlin Wall which has been painted with murals by international artists. Note to self: Leave open air viewing platforms for summer visits to Berlin – the biting cold winter air up on top of both structures was brutal.

And of course I did all week long what I do best in Berlin: eat my way around town. I went to some of my favorite restaurants (Azzam for Lebanese, Anna Blume for cake, The Barn for coffee, Hamy Cafe for Vietnamese food) and tried some places I’d been wanting to eat at for a while, like the excellent Alsancak Simit Sarayi for a Turkish breakfast, Vagabund Brauerei for craft beer and Zweistrom to try their Makali (a Lebanese sandwich with fried carrots, cauliflower, eggplant, potatoes, tomatoes, pickles & tahini sauce).

While I am still not a fan of the freezing temperatures in Berlin at this time of year and the fact that it gets dark at 4pm, it felt amazing to be back in one of my favorite cities in the world, even for such a short time, and ring in the New Year here. Bring it on, 2017!

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16 Favorite Travel Moments Of 2016

2016-travel-highlights

2016 was an interesting year, with travels I didn’t see coming at all, and visits to places I had on my travel wish list but didn’t think I’d go to this year. I terribly failed at my travel wish list – out of the ten places I wanted to visit, I only made it to one (Colombia).

2016 was the year I started off by saying I really want to slow down (see: The Evolution Of A Nomad), but then I ended up traveling more than in previous years. Even though I only visited six countries, my time in the US was spent between five states, and I ended up on 23 flights (from one place to another, not counting connecting flights), which means I took about two flights per month.2016 travelsI tried to add up the number of beds I slept in and came up with 82, but to be honest, I may have forgotten a couple. That means I’ve slept in a new bed every five days, and at least 12 beds more than in 2015, even though I visited less countries this year – down from 15 countries last year. I spent time in five different US states, however, I spent around a month in each: Washington, New York, Arizona, Texas and California.

I shared the details of each month’s ups and downs in my monthly round-ups, but here are my top 16 travel moments of 2016 as a whole:

16 Ice skating in Manhattan

There are only two things in New York City that get me excited for winter: Central Park covered in snow (which I witnessed two years ago) and the ice rinks. Despite spending all of December in New York last year, I never found someone to go ice skating with. This year, I finally made it to Bryant Park for an ice skating session, and if I end up spending next winter in New York, I’ll definitely invest in skates – so much fun!New York Bryant Park Ice Skating

Thanks for the photos, Kristin!

15 Visiting the Amazon

When I mapped out my time in Colombia, I decided not to visit the Amazon, simply because it was a bit of a hassle to get down there (only accessible by plane) and I felt like it wasn’t a good place for a solo traveler. When a friend I met on my travels through the country happened to fly down to Leticia though and invited me to tag along, I didn’t have to think twice. I was going to the Amazon! Soaking up life in small villages along the Amazon (only accessible by boat) was an amazing experience, and seeing the seemingly endless green of the Amazonian jungle was truly awe-inspiring. Kayaking in the Amazon and seeing pink river dolphins were the icing on the cake.Colombian Amazon

14 The Sweet SoCal Life

Last year, I spent a few days in L.A. – my first visit to Southern California since 2010 – and even though it was only a brief visit, it was one of my 2015 favorite travel moments. This year, I was lucky enough to return to SoCal, and ended up spending over a month there, three weeks of which were housesitting for my friend Jen in Long Beach. Looking after her pup Henry was such a treat, and I loved getting a taste of the sweet Cali life: runs on the beach, going for drives along the Pacific Coast Highway, and exploring L.A.’s neighborhoods. I feel extremely lucky that I got to spend so much time in this beautiful State.California

13 A day in Rome

I only had one full day in Rome after my week-long hike through Umbria and Latium, but I sure made the most of it. I wandered around Trastevere, my favorite neighborhood, for hours, I returned to some of my favorite landmarks (the Colosseum, the Pantheon and Trevi Fountain), I had tasty pizza and gelato, and even got to see the papal audience.Rome

12 Beach hopping along Mexico’s Pacific Coast

I’ve seen so much of Mexico in the past few years, but for some reason, I never made it to the popular Riviera Nayarit. This year, I finally made it to the famous Pacific beaches and beach hopped between Sayulita, San Pancho and Puerto Vallarta. I loved each place for different reasons, and was happy to enjoy beach town living for a few weeks. My routine there was simple, but it gave me so much joy: a few hours of work in the morning followed by a jungle hike or a SUP session, an hour at the beach with a good book and watching the sunset with a cold beer.Riviera Nayarit

11 Christmas Markets in Germany

I admit it: I am not the biggest fan of winter in Germany. It’s grey, it’s cold, it rains a lot, and the sun comes up at 8am and disappears at 4pm – if it shows itself at all. But one thing that got me excited about spending the Holidays with my family? The Christmas Markets! There’s just nothing like a German Christmas Market with mulled wine, sugar roasted nuts and other Christmas Market foods, seeking out gifts and catching up with friends over a glass of hot eggnog.Christmas Markets

10 Living in Mexico City

Mexico City wasn’t on my travel wish list for 2016, and not in a million years would I have thought that I’d end up there this year. But as so often happens, a life of travel often brings you to some unexpected crossroads, and I chose the road to Mexico City in March. Living there for a few weeks allowed me to revisit all of my favorite museums, neighborhoods and art galleries, and thanks to my local friends I got to know some new cool hangouts. Settling into a routine of work in my favorite coffee shop during the day and after work urban exploration was easy breezy – I could’ve stayed for much longer, but the Yucatan was calling (see #2).Mexico City

9 Summer in New York City

I was really bummed out when I learned that I had to travel to Germany for a couple of months this year, which meant missing out on my favorite time in New York: the summer. Luckily enough I was able to spend at least a month there in August (after a short week at the beginning of June) and tried to make up for lost time in those four weeks: a weekend getaway to Fire Island, the food markets, picnics in the park, outdoor movies, and even kayaking on the Hudson River. There’s just no place I’d rather be in the summer than New York.New York Summer

8 Playing tour guide in Berlin

I ended up playing tour guide in Berlin three times this year, and each time I visit the city, I fall in love with it a little bit more. Spending time in Berlin in the summer again was a real treat, because that meant I could show my visitors all my favorite things there: sunset picnics in Tempelhof Airport (sans planes), al fresco dining in Kreuzberg, strolls along the canal, bike rides through Tiergarten Park, flea markets, self-guided street art walks, beach bars and cheap wine bars, drinks with a view at Klunkerkranich, bar hopping in Friedrichshain, and I even happened to be in town for the Gay Pride Street Fest.Berlin

7 Hiking in Southern Arizona

I love my annual trips to Southern Arizona and I hope I’ll get to go in 2017, too. This year, two friends visited Tucson while I was there, which was the perfect excuse for several desert hikes. If you’ve been reading Globetrottergirls for a while, you’ll know that I can’t get enough of the desert, and especially the Sonoran Desert with its ginormous Saguaro Cacti.Southern Arizona

6 A month in Austin

2016 was the year I finally made it to Austin – a city that has been high on my travel wish list for several years now. And it did not disappoint! In fact, it turned out to be a city I loved so much that I’d consider moving there. So far, I thought NYC was the only U.S. city I could see myself live in, but Austin charmed me with its incredible live music scene, the countless food trucks, craft brew bars and coffee shops that serve beer. I loved how active the city was, with people kayaking and SUPing on the river at all times, and the lovely running and walking paths along the river and in the Greenbelt. Plus a bunch of other things which you can read here: 33 Things I Love About AustinAustin Texas

5 Beach time in Isla Mujeres

When I got to Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula in April, I hadn’t been to a beach since January, when I beach hopped along Colombia’s Caribbean Coast. I also hadn’t taken any time off in a while, which is why I was beyond excited when the ferry pulled into the small ferry port on Isla Mujeres, a tiny islet off the coast near Cancun. I hadn’t been to the island since 2010, but I’d never forgotten the pristine beaches and crystal clear Caribbean waters. Spending a few days there after my Mexican road trip (another 2016 highlight!) felt like heaven. Read more here: Isla Mujeres – Finding Paradise in MexicoIsla Mujeres Mexico

4 New Mexico’s White Desert

This wasn’t my first time in New Mexico’s White Desert – I went there on my New Mexico road trip in 2013 and loved this spectacular desert with its white sands. When I decided to road trip from Tucson to Austin I knew I had to plan in a short detour to stop there again. Last time I visited in the morning, so this time I wanted to be there in the afternoon, for golden hour and for sunset, and my plan worked out. It was, just like the first time, an incredible experience, and I loved that because of the late hour of our visit, we had the desert almost all to ourselves.White Sands

3 Hiking in Italy

A week of hiking through the Italian countryside? I didn’t have to think long when the opportunity for this trip arose, and I loved every minute of it. We stopped in small quaint mountain towns along the way, hiked through vineyards and ate copious amounts of pasta each night. This was definitely one of the most epic hiking trips I’ve ever done.Via Amerina Italy

2 A Yucatan road trip

The Yucatan will always be my favorite region in Mexico, no doubt! So when my favorite travel companion and I decided to go on another trip together (after two weeks of backpacking in Colombia in January) and she wanted to explore Mexico, I put together an epic Yucatan road trip for us, which would introduce her to cenotes and Caribbean beaches, Maya ruins and my favorite Spanish-colonial town in Mexico: Valladolid. We even snorkeled with sea turtles! The trip went exceptionally well and I’d do it again in a heartbeat.Yucatan Road Trip Mexico

1 The jungle trek to Colombia’s Lost City

I’d been intrigued by this trek ever since I’d first heard about it in 2010. Funnily enough, I am not sure if I would’ve had the guts to do it had I visited Colombia in 2011, as I’d originally planned when I set out on my round-the-world trip in 2010. Traveling to Colombia solo and challenging myself to hike through the jungles and the mountains for a few days showed me how much my travel style has evolved over the past few years. I was so proud when, after the four-day hike, which culminated in the climb of over 1,000 stairs to reach the ruins of an ancient city (whi, I finally set foot in the fabled ‘Lost City’ in the Sierra Nevada mountains. Even though this hike was a trip where you’d say it was equally as much about the journey as it was about the destination, I found the Lost City much more impressive than I thought I would.Colombia Ciudad Perdida

I can’t wait to see which adventures 2017 will bring, but I am ready for another epic year of travel. A big Thank You to all of you for reading Globetrottergirls and following my adventures!

Happy New Year!

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Polaroid Of The Week: The Insane Christmas Lights In Dyker Heights, Brooklyn

Polaroid of the week

polaroid of the week usa new york city brooklyn dyker heights christmas lightsI couldn’t go home to Germany for Christmas without stopping in New York en route to Europe! I hadn’t been in my adopted home in months, was eager to catch up with friends, and, most importantly: enjoy the Holiday Season in New York, because everybody knows that Christmas in the Big Apple is magical. Last year, when I spent the entire month of December in New York, I had so many plans for my 1st NYC Holiday Season: go ice skating, visit the Christmas markets around the city, see the Christmas window displays on 5th Avenue, marvel at the legendary Rockefeller Center Christmas Tree, and see the famous Dyker Heights Christmas lights. Well, somehow I didn’t manage to fit in everything on my list last year – I never went ice skating and I never made it down to Dyker Heights in the south of Brooklyn, which isn’t the easiest place to get to.

Even though I had less time than last year during my brief visit this month I was determined to make up for it, and not only did I go ice skating in Bryant Park (which was fabulous!), but I also went all the way to Dyker Heights to take in the elaborate Christmas lights there. I am not sure how it started, but there are a few blocks in a residential neighborhood there whose residents go completely bonkers with their Christmas light decorations. Now it has become so famous that bus loads of people arrive there every day (really, you can take a Dyker Heights Christmas lights bus tour!) to see this spectacle for themselves – apparently, more than 100,000 (!) people make their way to Dyker Heights every December! The lights been featured on the news, and every year, all sorts of publications run stories about these Christmas light displays.

Apparently, the residents who are participating in the Christmas light craze aim to make people feel the spirit of Christmas and have been doing so since the 1980s. Over the past few years though, since international media began reporting on this ‘phenomenon’, the lights have become crazier and crazier. As I was slowly walking up and down the streets that have the most intricate decorations, I couldn’t believe the extent of this annual tradition – the extravaganza was beyond my expectations and even though I think they are a little over-the-top, the Dyker Heights Christmas lights put a smile on my face and I know I’ll be back to see them again – hopefully next year.

Merry Christmas, everyone!

 

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Polaroid Of The Week: Fall Colors in Sonoma Wine Country, California

Polaroid of the week

polaroid of the week usa california sonoma wine country

One thing I loved about my trip to Sonoma Wine Country was seeing the vineyards during leaf changing season. I’d flown up from Los Angeles, the evergreen city with palm trees and summer weather even in December, and a short 90-minute flight later I found myself in fall weather again, just like in Seattle six weeks earlier. I’d never seen grapevines with changing leaves – I am not sure I even knew they were changing colors! – and loved the bright red and yellow colors in each winery I visited and every vineyard I passed in my car.

The wine tastings I did were fantastic, too – at the Korbel Winery for example, where I sampled California champagnes, or Virginia Dare Winery, recently purchased by Francis Ford Coppola. I got to tour the wineries and see the entire production line from wine making to corking and labeling the bottles which was incredible, got to sample wines that aren’t available anywhere but directly at the winery, and learned so much about wine in those few short days that I feel inclined to do some further studying now. I want to know more about the different kinds of grapes, the different kinds of wines, the differences between all of them. If you’re looking to pick up a new hobby, I highly recommend a trip to Sonoma Wine Country… I can’t imagine you’d come back without having your curiosity  in wine piqued 😉

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Polaroid Of The Week: Being Dwarfed By California’s Redwood Trees

Polaroid of the week

polaroid of the week usa california armstrong redwoodsThis past week was one of the busiest travel weeks since returning from Italy in September – I admit it, I am exhausted. After a long weekend in L.A. (where I was amazed by the still oh-so sunny and warm weather!) I flew up to Santa Rosa in Sonoma Wine Country for a week of wine, art, good food and hiking.

One of the highlights of the week was an afternoon spent hiking in the Armstrong Redwoods. The Redwoods are home to the tallest trees in the world, which live to be 500-1,000 years old, grow to a diameter of 12-16 feet, and stand from 200-250 feet tall. Walking through the forest where these imposing structures were towering over me, with moss-covered trunks of fallen trees on the ground, made me feel like I had entered some fairy tale world. I wouldn’t have been surprised had a fairy appeared in front of me, asking me to make a wish. Because of the height of the trees, barely any sun rays make their way through the branches, keeping the forest darker and in deeper shade than most other forests I’ve hiked through, which only added to the mystic aura.

The Armstrong Redwoods are supposed to remind visitors of what this whole region used to look like: Instead of  being covered in vineyards like it is today, all of Northern California used to be covered in forests of these colossal, majestic Redwood trees. The largest tree I encountered on my hike was the Parson Jones Tree, measuring more than 310 feet (94 meters) in height – longer than the length of a football field! Colonel Armstrong Tree, the oldest tree in the grove, is over 1,400 years old – these numbers were truly staggering and left me feeling even smaller and more humble than I already did in between these silent giants.

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Polaroid Of The Week: The Lush Mountains Of Puerto Vallarta, Mexico

Polaroid of the week

polaroid of the week mexico puerto vallartaTo be completely honest: I didn’t want to spend my last few days in Mexico in Puerto Vallarta. I wanted to stay in San Pancho or in Sayulita, which are both smaller beach towns north of Puerto Vallarta, and where I had spent my birthday. But because the season was just about to start in San Pancho most cafes were still opening at unreliable hours (if it all), and I needed wifi to get work done. In Sayulita, there were a few places I knew I could work at (with okay wifi, but still not great speeds) but struggled to find decent accommodation. Since I had several deadlines looming over me, I decided to do what seemed the most reasonable: to return to Puerto Vallarta, which I knew had a much bigger selection of available accommodation and great wifi. As much as I loved the vibe in the smaller beach towns, sometimes the digital nomad has to put work first, especially after a slow month in November.

And after a couple of days back in Puerto Vallarta I realized how much I actually liked the town that had seemed like a big resort town at first. Yes, there are casinos, golf clubs and cruise ships. Yes, there are giant all-inclusive resorts. But there’s also the Old Town, the Zona Romantica, with cobblestone streets, with ornate churches and bright pink bougainvillea trees that form a perfect contrast to the whitewashed colonial houses. And then there’s the dramatic backdrop: the lush green jungle-covered mountains that hug the Bahía de Banderas, the bay alongside which Puerto Vallarta stretches. I loved my morning runs on the Malecon, the wide promenade, which is lined with stunning bronze sculptures, and my explorations of the neighborhoods up in the hills, which offer jawdroppingly beautiful views over the city and the bay. I loved the variety of cafes and restaurants and gay bars (albeit almost all of them being heavily men-focused) and even a microbrewery, and that on Playa de los Muertos, the southernmost beach of Puerto Vallarta, you can dine right in the sand.

While Sayulita and San Pancho were smaller and more laid-back and I could still find completely deserted beaches there, I came to appreciate Puerto Vallarta in the end and boarded my flight knowing that I’d be back one day.

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Polaroid Of The Week: Sunset and surfers in San Pancho, Mexico

Polaroid of the week

polaroid of the week mexico 2016 san pancho mexicoThe last few days in Guadalajara were rainy, grey and cold. I had planned to stay there longer, but the weather made me change my plans. Instead of spending more time inland, I’d head straight to the coast. My first stop would be Sayulita, a small surfer town on the Pacific, and then I would visit San Pancho, a few miles further north, even smaller than the already tiny Sayulita, but a few of my friends had spent a winter there a few years back and loved it.

I couldn’t have made a better decision than traveling to the coast. I started my journey on a rainy morning in Guadalajara (it was pouring down the second day in a row) and a couple of hours into the bus ride, the rain stopped and the scenery began to look a lot more tropical. Four hours after hopping on that bus, I was let out on the side of the road right next to a guy selling coconuts fresh off a palm tree. The air felt sticky and hot. This was the climate I felt right at home in.

I’ve been enjoying beach life in both Sayulita and San Pancho since I got here: Watching the surfers, taking in the spectacular sunsets every day with a beer or two, taking a quick dip in the ocean when it gets too hot. I went on jungle hikes, on sweaty runs along the coast, I sipped fresh coconuts and ate too many tacos. I almost feel as if I was on vacation, even though I am spending way too many hours behind the screen of my laptop – but I don’t mind it. Knowing that I’ll get to recharge my batteries on the beach after work is all I need to make me happy right now.

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Polaroid Of The Week: Agave Fields In Tequila, Mexico

Polaroid of the week

polaroid of the week mexico tequila jaliscoWhen I mapped out my Mexico trip and tried to decide which city to fly into, it basically came down to one decision: Flying straight to the coast or visit a new city first. And as much as I was ready for some beach time, my curiosity to explore another Mexican city won. And Guadalajara won for three reasons: It is known to be cultural and artsy, it is relatively close to the Pacific coast, and it is only 70 kilometers from Tequila. A travel writer I follow on Snapchat had just gone there and her snaps from Tequila looked so gorgeous that I wanted to see the agave fields for myself, and visit a couple of tequila distilleries – even though I am not a big tequila fan (I have a margarita every now and again, but straight up tequila wouldn’t necessarily be my drink of choice).

And so I found myself on a bus to Tequila on my very last day in Guadalajara, excited for agave fields and for an education about Mexico’s national spirit, one that, admittedly, I knew very little about. While the day trip didn’t exactly turn on the way I was hoping for (rain instead of blue skies, too many hours spent on a bus, bad planning), I immediately fell in love with the little village of Tequila. I could feel that we weren’t far anymore when agave fields started to line the street on both sides, with their distinctive green-bluish leaves.

The village itself is one of Mexico’s fifty or so Pueblos Magicos, Magic Villages – a title that Tequila well deserves. Colorful colonial houses, cobble stone streets, colonial churches, and tree-lined plazas where street vendors try to tempt you with fresh roasted corn or with ice cream. I instantly wished I would have come for longer than a few hours on a day trip. The highlight was, of course, visiting a tequila distillery, where we were shown the entire process of tequila making. Starting with the big piles of the piñas, the agaves’ round centers, which are thrown on a conveyor belt – the first step of the actual tequila production. We got to see the milling and fermentation, the distillation and finally the bottling. And of course we were not leaving before everyone had tasted the different kinds of tequila produced here: Blanco (bottled immediately upon distillation), Reposado (aged for at least two months), Añejo (aged for at least a year, but less than three) and Extra Añejo (over-aged).

As I said: the day trip to Tequila could’ve been planned better, but yet: I am so glad I went. In fact, it made me add a road trip following Jalisco’s entire Tequila Trail to my travel wish list.

P.S. You can follow my journey in real time on Snapchat: mariposa2711

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Polaroid Of The Week: Guadalajara, Mexico’s Second City

Polaroid of the week

polaroid of the week mexico guadalajaraWhen it rains, it pours, they say, and that couldn’t hold truer for the past couple of weeks. And I don’t only mean that because it is pouring as I type this – I haven’t seen that much rain since leaving Seattle, but Guadalajara got so much rain today that the streets were flooding – but, as so many of us, I’ve been struggling with the events of this week. That combined with a string of bad news since the beginning of the month has put me in a slump which I’m trying to get out of.

Coming to Mexico was certainly a good decision and is helping me getting my mojo back: As soon as I walked out of the terminal building last week and saw the familiar OXXO convenience store across the street, I felt like I was coming home. And there aren’t many places that make me feel this way. The familiarity of Mexico has also helped me ease into solo travel again, which I haven’t done in a while now, and the weather has been perfect for most of the week – after my depressingly wet and cold October this was much needed.

Guadalajara, which I picked as the starting point for my current Mexico trip, was an excellent choice. I’d never been to Mexico’s second largest city, and it was time to fix that. The city reminds me a lot of Mexico City, which I love, has plenty of awesome street art, beautiful colonial buildings and tree-lined plazas that invite to linger. There is a fantastic art scene here, and I’ve been trying to take as much of it in as possible. The highlight was the Art Museum of the University with a giant, stunning Orozco wall mural and mural covering the interior of the auditorium dome. I felt like it was just yesterday that I marveled at his murals in Mexico City and visited Frida’s Casa Azul for the second time.

I apologize for the lack of content here, but I’ll get back to regular posting as soon as I’m back at 100%. I’ve got a bunch of posts from all over the place for you: Seattle, Mexico, Colombia and Italy!

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