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‘Skip Manila if you can, fly straight to Boracay!’ .. ‘Don’t spend time in Manila, it’s a shithole..’ Warnings like these were what I kept hearing when I told people I was starting my South East Asia trip with a stint in the Philippines.

But coming from Hong Kong, Manila was still the most convenient starting point, and I wanted to head north to the Banaue rice terraces and the Hanging Coffins in Sagada from there. So Manila would definitely be part of my trip to the Philippines. I expected to hate Manila though, to be honest.

flying into manila
Flying into Manila

I had booked myself into a hostel near Bonifacio Global City, which is the new business district of Manila that is currently still being developed, while there are dozens of brand new condo towers, office high rises, malls and well-manicured little parks already finished, there are more high rises – mainly luxurious condo towers – being built right now. Global City is the place where you find Manila’s upper class and wealthy expat community. It is hard to believe that ten years ago, this very place was a swamp. On my first stroll through the neighborhood I was shocked to see a Lamborghini and a Ferrari car dealership, and more fine eateries and home design shops that I would find in a comparable neighborhood in Berlin. This was definitely not how I had pictured Manila.bonifacio global city manila philippines‘This is supposed to be a third world country’, I kept thinking to myself, and yet this part of town was nicer than most of the downtown areas of major cites I’d visited in the US. I was stunned.

bonifacio global city manila
Global City skyscrapers on the right side

A stark contrast to the modern new-builds was the small neighborhood behind my hostel (which was separated from Global City through a huge golf court) which reminded me a lot of Thailand. Little alleyways were full of plants in front of the houses to bring at least a little green into the concrete jungle that is Manila, cats were lazing around, laundry was drying in the streets, flying vendors were selling snacks and little street food stalls were frying up meat. This neighborhood wasn’t necessarily what I’d call a shithole either, and people were always very friendly when I was passing through. Manila turned out to be quite different than expected.manila old neighborhoodA couple of days later a reader of mine, Carla, offered to show me around town, an offer which I happily accepted. In a city of nearly 12 million people, it can be hard to figure out what the best places to see are, so a local guide is always a plus, especially when it’s such a charming and funny one like Carla.

We started our night at the Corner Tree Cafe, a vegetarian restaurant in Makati, which can be described as Manila’s downtown and the financial center of the Philippines. I had heard horror stories about how vegetarian-unfriendly the food was in the Philippines, and had been a bit worried I might not find any good food. But so far, everything I’d eaten was absolutely delicious and vegetarian options were abound. I even found a vegan hole in the wall, complete with green smoothies, near Global City.filipino food vegetarian manila philippinesAfter dinner, we drove through Makati, and I marveled at high rises and fancy malls, and again: this wasn’t anything like I’d pictured Manila! We stopped at the Greenbelt, a giant outdoor shopping mall with cafes, restaurants and shops. Everything was super fancy, and the restaurants and cafes had a funkier decor than most cafes in Europe. I could see why this mall had won several awards for design.earlybird manilaThe only place I disliked was Cafe Havana, apparently a popular pick-up place for Western guys to pick up Filipinas. The many single, middle-aged Western men at the outdoor tables who were leering at the young, lightly-dressed Filipinas confirmed this rumor.

The night was still young, and Carla asked me if I wanted to have a drink in a speakeasy bar. A speakeasy in Manila?! This city kept surprising me. Of course I had to see it! When we walked through the doors of the unassuming Space Cafe, I would’ve never known that there was a bar in here, but sure enough, at the back end of the cafe there was an ‘Exit’ door which turned out to be the entrance to a dimly lit speakeasy bar. My favorite part? All the fancy cocktails were around PHP190 – US$4.30!manila speakeasy exit barAfter this pleasant surprise, I was ready for another bar experience, but first I got a surprise that made me even giddier with excitement than $2 cocktails: a Toby’s Estate Coffee Shop! My go-to coffee shop in Brooklyn, which I visit on a regular basis when I am in New York, and you can imagine my surprise to see this Brooklyn hipster hangout in Manila. To be fair though- Toby’s was founded in Australia, so I shouldn’t have been too surprised. But again: not exactly how I pictured Manila.manila tobys estate philippinesOur next stop was just a few doors down from Toby’s, a chic bar named Hooch that was buzzing with atmosphere and filled with locals and expats alike. Drinks here were a bit more on the pricey side, but the unique cocktail creations were worth the splurge, like this upside down cocktail.hooch cocktail manilaSo far, I enjoyed Manila way more than I had expected, and I had yet to see the historic part of town, Intramuros, the walled neighborhood established by the Spanish when thy came to the Philippines in 1571. Prior to my arrival, I had come across several raving reviews of Carlos Celtran’s Intramuros walking tour and decided to join it. Lucky for me, Carla had also heard about Carlos and was interested in checking out the tour as well, and so we met again on a sunny Sunday afternoon to get a tour of Intramuros.intramuros manilaIt turned out that this tour is much more popular than I had anticipated – when we arrived at the meeting port at Fort Santiago, there were about fifty people waiting for Carlos, who is quite a character. Apparently he finished an acting degree but didn’t find work as an actor, and ended up running tours in Manila instead – and trust me, these tours are more like a performance than anything else. He had several props on him, costumes, sweets to keep us entertained, and acted out most of the historical events rather than just telling us about them. The tour was well worth the steep price tag and I learned so much more about Manila’s history (including why the city has become a city that people say visitors to the Philippines should skip) than I would have had I just wandered around Intramuros with my guidebook in hand.

carlos celdran manila
Carlos Celdran

Intramuros itself was refreshingly different from the skyscrapers, malls and modern office towers in Makati. Old Spanish-colonial houses, historic churches, a stunning cathedral and horse-drawn carriages made me think of Casco Viejo in Panama, which felt similarly remote to the glitzy skyscrapers of Panama City’s New Town.intramuros street manilaThe tour ended with a sample of Halo-halo, a popular Filipino dessert made of shaved ice and evaporated milk to which various boiled sweet beans (like kidney beans), jello and fruits (jack fruit, tapioca, sweet potato) are added.halo halo manilaAfter the tour, we stayed in Intramuros for some sunset drinks at the Skydeck rooftop bar on top of the Bayleaf Hotel – sadly, the sun didn’t cooperate that evening with rainclouds moving in, but I could see that this would be the perfect spot to watch the sunset over the bay on a sunny day. Carla had yet another surprise in store for me when she took me to The Wholesome Table, an organic restaurant in Global City that looked just as chic as the organic restaurants I’ve visited in the U.S. or elsewhere.the wholesome table manilaWe ended my visit to Manila with a visit to another speakeasy bar, this one even better hidden than Exit, a black iron door at the ground floor of what looked like an office building, and inside a small dark bar hidden from the outside world.

I left Manila with a smile on my face, still in disbelief about how different the city was from the image I’d had in my mind before I got there. Good company, excellent vegetarian food and fancy drinks – if those were signs for things to come, I’d have an amazing time in the Philippines.bonifacio global city skyscrapers manila

Practical information

 Where to stay in Manila

Most hostels are located in Makati, which is the downtown part of Manila with several malls, plenty of places to eat, movie theaters and other amenities. Our Melting Pot and Hilik Boutique Hostel (both in the same building) are popular hostels and good places to meet other travelers. There are also some hostels (and high-end hotels) in Bonifacio Global City, the brand new part of town where you find lots of fancy eateries on the High Street, as well as some nicer clubs. I felt very safe there, but it’s quite far from downtown and from Intramuros.manila skyscrapers philippines

Where to eat in Manila

Some of the places I loved are:

  • The Corner Tree Café, 150 Jupiter, Makati (vegetarian restaurant, both Filipino and Western dishes)
  • The Wholesome Table, 30th Taguig, Global City (organic restaurant in Bonifacio Global City, good vegetarian options and healthy smoothies)
  • Juicesabel, 3800 Kalayaan Avenue, Makati (a small hole-in-the-wall vegan café and detox juice bar near Global City)
  • Early Bird Breakfast Club, GF Fort Pointe 2 Building, The Fort Complex, 28th St – there are more branches around the city (fantastic breakfast place (all-day breakfasts) with several branches around the city
  • Toby’s Estate (best coffee in Manila, several branches around the city, the one on L.P. Leviste Street in Makati seems to be the largest one)

If you stay in Makati, head to the Greenbelt outdoor mall for a number of restaurants, cafes and bars.Manila Food and Drinks

Where to drink in Manila

  • The Blind Pig, 227 Salcedo St. Corner Gamboa (a cozy speakeasy with fantastic cocktails – you won’t see much of a sign though, only the black door – knock to be let in)
  • Exit, Corinthian Plaza 121 Paseo de Roxas corner Legaspi Street (a speakeasy bar in the back of Space Café)
  • Hooch, 125 LP Leviste St Salcedo Village, Makati (fancy cocktail bar, a bit pricier but worth it)
hooch cocktails philippines

What to do in Manila

There’s not much sightseeing per se to do in Manila; I did a lot of walking around and just took in the city. Intramuros is the most picturesque part of Manila and if you’re interested in learning more about Manila’s history and Filipino culture, I highly recommend taking Carlos Celdran walking tour. He runs it on weekends only, and promises ‘illusions, candy, flowers, and carriage rides‘. I can confirm that all of this is true. Reservation by email essential, price: PHP1,100 (US$25).

I later found out that Manila has quite an art scene, including a contemporary art museum and a photography gallery, both of which I can’t wait to check out when I return to the Philippines. Here are Time Magazine’s Top Ten things to do in Manila.

Other useful information

Airport

Note that the four terminals of Ninoy Aquino International Airport are not in one building, but scattered around town. If you fly in internationally and plan to fly to another destination domestically, it’s likely that you’ll be leaving from a different terminal. Look up beforehand which terminal your flight leaves from or you might end up at the wrong terminal. Also leave enough time between flights if you have to change terminals because traffic in Manila is insane.manila sunset philippines

Getting around

  • The easiest way to get around is by taxi, make sure that the driver turns on his meter.
  • There are also jeepneys (shared pick-up trucks) but I couldn’t figure out their routes.
  • The MRT (elevated railway) is a good option if you happen to stay near it. The network isn’t great and doesn’t connect all of Metro Manila.

Safety

Manila tends to get quite a bad rap, but I never felt unsafe. There are quite a few scammers out to get you, but you’ll be fine if you know their spiel – read up on the common scams, how to avoid being scammed or conned in Manila, and find some more tips on staying safe in Manila here.manila philippines street art

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Tags : manilaphilippines

27 Comments

  1. Wow, Manila looks quite different from the way I remember it. It’s been ten years since I last lived there, and four years since my previous visit. From how you describe things, it looks like I need to pay another visit soon to get updated!

    1. I can only imagine how different it must have looked 10 years ago, Jeruen! You’ll have to go back and tell me how you feel about Manila now, especially Global City! 😀

  2. My mind is blown after reading this. I only spent one night in Manila and I saw barely anything other than the airport. I’d also heard awful things about Manila, so I am stunned reading this. Manila is SO full of history and I love seeing that there are parts of town that are so well-preserved.

    I had heard that Manila had a really great selection of vegetarian restaurants, so I’m glad to hear it confirmed. During my two months in the Philippines I can’t say I had an easy time as a vegetarian. But I did find really great options in cities like Cebu City. My boyfriend and I have been thinking A LOT about going back to the Philippines this summer. We didn’t get a chance to do Manila, Sagada or the Banaue Rice Terraces. Based on this I’m definitely going to give Manila a fair shot next time I’m in town!

    1. Justine – yeah, like I said, I expected to hate Manila. If you go back you’ll have to give it another chance. I can give you some more recommendations for veggie restaurants.. didn’t get to check them out this time around but I hope I’ll get to try some of them when I return (to visit Banaue and Sagada :D)

    1. Oh wow! Where in Makati did you stay? I was really lucky that I had such a lovely lady showing me around 😉 Otherwise I would’ve never found all these cool spots.

  3. Hi Dany,

    Really great to know on veggy fare, as I heard the same thing and my wife is pure veggy. Things could get dicey if we have no options; she’s a bit food anxious LOL. I blame her not. After doing Fiji for 4 months we were relegated to super basic stuff.

    Manila looks awesome. Per as is the case some urban areas get a bad rap but a trip usually paints a different pic. How about that? Your BK cafe shop, here in Manila? Way neat.

    I recall seeing a NYC-NJ style diner in Chiang Mai, Thailand – Butter Is Better – run by a NYC guy and nearly flipping out. I was in heaven. REAL tri-state food! I went there only 20 to 30 times over a year or less, LOL.

    Inspired share Dany!

    Ryan

    1. Thanks, Ryan! Butter Is Better sounds awesome – I am putting that on the list of places to check out in Chiang Mai next time I’m there! I love surprises like that! 🙂

    1. Kirsten, you have no idea how much your comment means to me because when I wanted to publish the post I looked through my photos of Manila and thought I didn’t have any decent pictures to go with the post 😉

    1. Annoying is an understatement! The traffic is INSANE. I have never been to a city where traffic was moving so slow and streets were so congested.. wow!

  4. You got lucky. Most people don’t. That’s why Manila has such a bad reputation. You stayed in the better parts of town. Most people stay in Manila City (the old city; it’s a crazy mix of a dozen or so “cities”). The old city of Manila is one of the dirtier and filthier parts. You’ll notice that area on the way to Intramuros. It’s a shame that it got left behind as neighboring areas developed. The Philippine government isn’t really good at planning. They take laissez faire to a whole new level.
    Many visitors to Metro Manila (as the whole metropolis is called) make the mistake of staying in Manila City (the old city) thinking that it’s still the main “downtown” area. But Metro Manila is weird. There is no single downtown. In fact, there are 5 or 6 CBDs (Central Business Districts, that’s how they call it now) scattered around the place. Makati and BGC are two of those. Ortigas is also noteworthy. And with insufficient mass transport system, traffic is often horrible as people move between those places by cars.

  5. Thanks so much for the perspective-change on Manila. I had heard mixed reviews but the more I reviewed the more I was thinking that perhaps it did not live up to it’s bad rap. Makes me feel much better about choosing to spend a little more time here than originally planned. We will be sure to give you a shout out in our blog!

    :0)
    jax

    1. Hi Jax – would love to hear how you like it! It’s really not as bad as some people make it out to be .. and there are some super fancy areas in the city. You’ll see 😉 (Plus amazing restaurants!!)

  6. What an incredible post!
    Thank you for appreciating Manila, I am from the Philippines and I might say it may not be the nicest place here, but hey! I would still recommend this on top of everything! Manila is alive and still growing!
    Again, on behalf of the Filipino people, thank you! More power to you and to your blog 🙂

    1. Thanks so much, Kimberley! I think that Manila’s changing so much – it will be a great city a few years from now, don’t you think?

    1. I will definitely spend time in Manila again when I get back to the Philippines! I was told that there are other speakeasy bars that I have yet to try 😀

  7. Dani,
    Cool !! I love your work, thank you for sharing your thoughts on how beautiful the Philippines is; Minus the misconceptions of course. I’m looking forward to hear more from you.

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