close

Personal

The Happiness Of Pursuit, My Search For A Quest, And A Book Giveaway!

no thumb

.

There’s a quest waiting for you to find, claim or create.

After reading Chris Guillebau’s latest book, The Happiness Of Pursuit, this sentence stuck with me. I wasn’t even twenty pages into the book when I decided that it’s time to find – and pursue – a quest of my own.

The author himself undertook to huge quest of visiting every country in the world before turning 35. And even though he was successful, he had to overcome countless hurdles, setbacks and other issues, but he never gave up. In the book he doesn’t only talk about his very own quest, but he looks at all kinds of other quests, pursued by people who he got to know while in the process of reaching his own goal. The things people were challenging themselves with were not always travel-related, but included self-discovery quests, academic quests, athletic quests and creative quests (to name just a few).

He shows examples of people who successfully pursued their quests or are still in the process of doing so, on track to reach their goal soon. He explains why the people he interviewed for the book decided to pursue their respective quests, how they overcame roadblocks and blocked out naysayers, and what exactly defines as a quest.

The happiness of pursuitWhat exactly defines as a quest?

Many people set goals, like getting in better shape for example, or run a marathon, travel to fifty countries or improve their photography, but a quest is actually much bigger than that.

Chris Guillebeau defines a quest as an undertaking with a specific goal and end point, a challenging pursuit, something that requires a sacrifice of some sort and is driven by an internal motivation that can border on obsession. To reach the end goal, incremental progress is made, step by step. Quests that he talks about in the book that I thought were remarkable included Laura Dekker, who set off to become the youngest person to circumnavigate the world alone in a sailboat at the age of 16, Martin Powell who ran 250 marathons in one year and Thomas Hawk, who challenged himself to take, edit and publish one million photos. As you can see, no quest is like the other.

I am longing for a challenge

Maybe the book resonated so much with me because I am at a point where I am simply ready to take on a challenge. The author asks the reader in the book: What’s the next chapter of your story? And after the big changes and hurdles I’ve dealt with this year, I have actually asked myself this question several times in the past few weeks.

I’ve already made the decision to undertake a quest of my own, but I am not ready yet to announce what I am going for. I have to admit that it’s not likely to be a travel-related quest, just because I don’t feel anything in travel would really challenge me. While for many people walking the Camino is a quest, I never doubted my physical ability to finish it, even though it will be challenging. A quest to visit all the UNESCO World Heritage sites around the globe is just not special anymore. Cycling overland from Europe to China or walk across Africa? Visiting all 50 US states or National Parks? It’s all been done. And, even though I have seemingly a million places I’d like to see on my travel wish list, I don’t have the desire to visit every country in the world, that’s just not my quest.

To challenge myself, I know it has to be a physical goal, something that pushes my body to the limit. That is all I am going to say about my own quest for now 🙂

the happiness of pursuitAre you ready to pursue a quest?

If you are like me, looking for something to challenge yourself with and to work towards to, want to get some more inspiration to find your own quest, and how to successfully pursue it, this book is definitely for you. I found myself taking notes the entire time I read The Happiness Of Pursuit, and I don’t remember the last time I actually marked paragraphs and sentences while reading a book!

To find out if you are ready to undertake a quest, you could ask yourself the following questions:

  • Do you long for a challenge?
  • Do you enjoy setting goals?
  • Does making progress toward a goal motivate you?
  • Do you have a hobby or passion or something you might be almost obsessed with?
  • Are you ready to follow your passion?
  • Do you have ideas you can’t stop thinking about?
  • Is there more to life than this?
  • Are you ready to break out of the traditional life path?

If you can answer most of these questions with YES, you are probably ready to pursue your very own quest.

finding your quest
Finding your quest is not always easy.. but pursuing it is even harder.

You can order the book from Amazon or find it in your local book store – or enter the giveaway!

Win a copy of the book!

I am giving away one copy of The Happiness Of Pursuit to one lucky reader – so if this sounds interesting to you, leave a comment for a chance to win a copy! I’d like to know if you’ve ever pursued a quest, and if so, were you successful? What kind of quest was it? If you are planning to pursue a quest: what kind of quest would be for you? A physical challenge, a travel quest, self-improvement or educational? I am looking forward to your comments!

To find out more about the author, visit ChrisGuillebeau.com. To find out more about the book, visit FindTheQuest.com.

Disclaimer: This review of The Happiness of Pursuit including the book giveaway is sponsored by Random House. The winner of the giveaway will be chosen via Random.org. The giveaway will close on 22 September.
read more

Life lately and upcoming travels: August 2014 Edition

no thumb

Since I am usually writing my travel stories delayed in time, I started these monthly updates to tell you about my current whereabouts, what has been going on with me travel-wise, emotionally and work-related (if there’s anything interesting to talk about), plus where I’m headed to in the next month.

Life lately

August has been the busiest month in ages – I feel like I haven’t stopped moving since I returned from Buffalo at the end of July. Moving quite literally – through word of mouth and a pinch of luck, I ended up housesitting again three times this month! In total, I did eight housesits during my time in New York – none of which had been arranged before I got here – and I even had to turn down two requests this month due to timing issues. I loved getting to know so many different neighborhoods, many of which I’d never set foot in had it not been for a sit, and some of which I was completely smitten by, like Crown Heights, where I housesat an adorable little dog named Monkey, or Prospect Heights, where I housesat for Jessie the cat three times. But I wrote in more detail about my adventures in housesitting in this post, including some tips on how to score a great gig in New York City.

rooftop chelsea
The rooftop terrace of the luxury Chelsea apartment I housesat in.

When I wasn’t moving house, I was moving around town like a mad woman over the past four weeks: I crossed the Brooklyn Bridge walking and running several times, whizzed around town on my Citibike, walked the entire length of the High Line Park about five times, checked out art exhibitions, flea markets and food markets, street art and more open air movies, rooftop bars and a couple of sunset cruises, plus an awesome outdoor dance party. There were several picnics in the park as well, two visits to the Bronx, street art walks, bocce ball games, beautiful sunsets, lots of good food, and speakeasy bars, to name just the things that popped right into my head.

high line park nyc
The High Line Park, which I love!

I only left New York once this month to go to New Jersey for a day, and sadly I only went to a beach once, despite the glorious summer weather. Instead of hitting up some beaches along the Jersey Shore as we had planned we ended up in an incredible (and incredibly big!) sculpture park because the weather didn’t cooperate that day. I made it to the Rockaways though, a beach getaway just a subway ride away from Manhattan (and even closer if you happen to be in Brooklyn). The Rockaways had been on my to-see-list forever and turned out to be way more awesome than expected. Even though I barely traveled, I did so much exploring in NYC that I just feel exhausted and want rest for a month. There’s no time to rest though…

dani at rockaway beach
Beach = Happiness

Upcoming travels

Next week, I’ll wave goodbye to New York and the U.S. for a while and explore a region entirely unknown to me. The original plan was to hike the Camino De Santiago, a 500 mile long medieval pilgrims trail in northern Spain. While this started out as a pilgrimage for Christians, who end the trail at the tomb of St James in the cathedral of Santiago De Compostela, it has become more and more popular for non-Christians over the last decade or so. Think of it as a ‘journey to yourself’ sort of thing, a quest that people undertake, a month of walking to have some time with yourself and to reflect on your life, think about your future, deal with your deepest inner fears, hopes, ideas and issues.

footprintsWhile I had been intrigued by the Camino for a while and it came up several times when J and I discussed travel plans in the past, I was never sure if I was able to do a month of walking. After finishing our 5-day Salkantay Trek in Peru’s Andes earlier this year though, which is not an easy trek, I was hooked on multi-day treks and eager to do more of those. And the Camino seemed perfect this year – after everything that’s happened in my life, I felt like it would be a good way to process and work through my emotions on this very long walk. However, at the end of June I started to discuss the opportunity to go on another amazing trek, the Israel National Trail, a grand hike across Israel that is not very well known.

We need to talk about Israel

I hope you can laugh about this video, too – I needed the laugh that day after having spent hours reading hard-to-digest news articles about the Israel – Gaza conflict. Talks about this trip had begun before the conflict started (and later escalated). When the situation there got out of control instead of an anticipated short few days of combat, I decided to withdraw and go ahead with my original plans, and have since been going back and forth about doing the trek about 600 times in the last seven weeks. Let me say that I am not necessarily a fan of Israel’s politics but I usually give every country a chance, even when I have a problem with their politics or am disturbed by a country’s social issues – and I have been spending the last four months in a country where I am disturbed by social and political happenings on a regular basis (Ferguson just being one example this summer), but I still love the country and its people (well, at least most of them).

dont shoot bushwickWith regards to Israel, I am not qualified to provide commentary on the complex political situation in that region, even though I have been following the escalating situation between the Hamas and Israel closely over the last few weeks and done a lot of research on the topic. I have been talking about the conflict with Israeli expats here in New York, with friends who have a better understanding of the region, and with critical and objective travelers who have been there. They all encouraged me to take this opportunity to visit the country and to see the situation for myself, and form my own opinion.

As for articles about my trip, I am not sure to what extent I’ll be able to cover the conflict, but I will share the same types of stories of food, culture, an introduction to the country and of the people i will meet there.

shakshuka at bustan
The best introduction to Israeli culture I’ve gotten so far: Shakshuka, one of my favorite egg dishes in the world.

I will first join a group of travel journalists to hike the National Israel Trail for eight days, a hike that was named one of the most epic trails in the world by National Geographic and is supposed to be a once-in-a-lifetime experience. I will then travel independently to several places around the country and also gladly accepted the invitation from a friend to show me around the country. I am planning to explore places like Jerusalem, Jaffa and the Dead Sea, places that I have been dying to visit. The trek itself was the most compelling factor, since like I said before, I am keen on another challenging trek, and my hikes in the scorching heat of the Sonoran Desert and through hot-as-hell White Sands should actually be a good indication of what to expect since Israel is very hot and dry.

dani in southern arizona
Hiking in the Sonoran Desert in Arizona

I will spend about four weeks in the country and hope this will give me the chance to get a good picture of Israel, and the chance to learn more about the ongoing conflict with Gaza.

What’s new with Globetrottergirls.com

Last month I received a rather large invoice from my web hosting company, giving me the option to either terminate the website or to keep it going. For a moment, I was hesitating. But you reading this now means that I paid the invoice and will keep running the site, and I committed to three years (for now), so get ready for hundreds of more travel articles.

new york city
More articles on New York City coming soon!

This got me thinking though – will I still be globetrotting in three years? What will I be doing in three years? Will I have a base somewhere? As of now, I sincerely cannot answer this question, but I have no doubt that life will lead me in the right direction. What else got me thinking about the future was the Soccer World Cup which ended last month – because I was in completely different places and stages of my life during the last four World Cups, never anticipating in the slightest where I’d be four years later. In 2002, I was working as a cocktail waitress in Ibiza, not knowing that I’d be getting a degree in International Business in 2006, when the World Cup took place in Germany (my home country). It was my last summer there before I moved to England, and while I was working my way up the corporate ladder, I had no idea I’d be watching the final games of the World Cup in 2010 in Mexico City, three months into what was supposed to be a one-year trip around the world. And then, I certainly didn’t think I’d still be vagabonding four years later, and watch the World Cup in my favorite city in the world!

statue of liberty at sunset nycI am curious to see where I’ll watch the World Cup in 2018, and while I have no clue where that will be, I have no doubt that I’ll be in a good place.

As for the stories I am sharing momentarily – I had mentioned a while ago that I’d still want to share the stories of J and my last travels together, but that I’d want to take my time and decide when I’m ready to relive the emotions of the incredible experiences we had before the break-up. I am not gonna lie, it is still not without pain that I look back at these adventures that happened so close to the end of our relationship – like our trek to Machu Picchu, our Salt Flats Tour in Bolivia or our New Mexico road trip – all highlights of all of our travels together, making it a bittersweet journey back in time for me.

Overall though, I can look at those photos now with a smile on my face, remembering these trips without getting caught up in emotions, treasuring them in my heart forever and being thankful that I was able to experience these things together with her. I have already started to sprinkle in some of those stories here and there in the past few weeks – you can expect more of them in addition to my travel stories from New York, Buffalo and Israel, and I hope it is not too confusing for anyone (please let me know if it is!) that I am not necessarily posting in chronological order.

dani laguna honda
The 3-day off-roading jeep tour through Bolivia’s Southwest was an all-time travel highlight – I can’t wait to share my photos with you.

What do you think?

I’d love to hear what you think about me traveling to Israel right now – I’ve already gotten angry comments from some people who I told about the trip, who cannot understand that I am traveling to Israel in the first place, and that I am doing it during this unstable time (to this I’d like to say that the trip has been approved by the Ministry Of Tourism and the authorities are confident that it is safe to do this now). I know not everybody will be supportive of my decision, but I hope you’ll understand my motivation behind it. As for the Camino – I am still eager to walk it, and have been thinking several times if I really made the right decision NOT to walk it now, but to be honest: While I felt like I desperately needed this time with myself when I started researching the Camino back in May, I am in a much better place right now and have been reflecting a lot during the past few months. I am interested to see how I’ll feel about my decision in four weeks’ time, and will share my thoughts on that here at the end of September.

plane
I’m leaving on a jet plane, don’t know when I’ll be back again…
read more

Traveling in India: A Truly Life Changing Experience

Hampi India

‘India will change you forever’, I would hear over and over again as soon as we announced we would travel to the subcontinent. ‘Really?’, I thought incredulously, ‘what could possibly have such an impact on me there?’ I had traveled through Central America and South East Asia, and had encountered extreme poverty, dysfunctional cities, violence and fear. I didn’t think that anything could still shock me after the things I had already seen, from the child beggars in Guatemala to the limping stray dogs in Nicaragua and the in-your-face sex tourism in Cambodia.

But nothing prepares you for India. Nothing prepares you for the intense smells, the chaos that ensues when a herd of cows decides to take a stroll along a busy highway, the crazy traffic and the constant honking, the homeless people sleeping on sidewalks, not dozens, but hundreds of them, or the dead bodies you’ll see. You can’t block out the begging ladies who seem a hundred years old and look at you with those heartbreakingly sad eyes while they shyly beg you for money with their palms pleadingly open, and by the village kids that run around dirt roads in just underwear and without shoes because they don’t have anything.

Village life in India
Village life in India

India is a lot to take in. And India is hard to take. Even though you might read this now thinking ‘I feel like I know what to expect when I go there’, when you get there, it will knock you off your feet.

I might have painted a pretty bleak picture of India so far, so let me correct this. I did not hate India – quite on the contrary: I loved traveling there. While many scenes you’ll experience in on a daily basis – the countless stray animals, the beggars, the crazy train rides, the deformations on people’s bodies – are hard to digest, especially in such a huge concentration, there are equally as many things that will amaze you. The incredibly diverse scenery for one, which ranges from deserts and mountains in the north to tropical beaches in Goa and the barren moon-like scenery around Hampi. The ornate, grand and mystifying temples, the scrumptious food that bursts with flavors, the wonderfully welcoming people were all things that made me fall in love with India.

Unforgettable India
Beautiful India

Some travelers find it annoying to be stared at or even have their hair touched, but I have to say though that I was just as enticed by the large families I met. Especially the women, all dressed up in colorful saris, painted with henna tattoos, wearing golden little jewels or bindis on their foreheads, and eye-catching golden jewelry hanging from their wrists, necks and sometimes noses, fascinated me just as much as I fascinated them, the light skinned girl with the bright blonde hair. While they wanted to feel my ‘yellow’ hair, I wanted to run my fingers through their thick black hair. The timid smiles and curious looks, and how we tried to communicate despite their limited English to find out more about each others lives are encounters I wouldn’t want to miss.

Meeting Indian families in Hampi
One of the most rewarding experiences in India: getting to know the locals

The way India changes you is how it changes your perspective on the smallest details in your own life. For one, I just cannot complain about anything in my life anymore – no matter how hard something might seem in a specific moment, I am blessed with a great life, a passport that lets me travel anywhere in the world without any bureaucratic hassle – the fact alone that I am able to travel! Seeing the families in Hampi, a sacred site for Hindus which they are supposed to visit at least once in their lives, who have never left their village before but saved every penny to could to make the trip there, sleeping in the streets and living off cheap street food, made me feel ashamed about my complaints about the too thin mattress on the bed in our basic yet clean $3 per night guesthouse. Back home in their villages these pilgrims usually don’t have running water or a solid, concreted floor in their house. Everywhere I traveled in India I saw women with big buckets on their heads, on their way to a well to get the water they needed to do laundry and dishes.

India People
People of India

When I was stuck on an overcrowded train that for the first time I realized what cattle class actually means, with one person in our group in tears and the rest of us on the verge of them, I couldn’t help but think ‘I am so glad that I don’t have to do that every day.’ But it is the reality for hundreds of millions of Indians. I watched women doing dishes and laundry in dirty river water where at the same time an elephant released himself while being bathed; men were shaving and women washing their hair, because this natural ‘pool’ is the only ‘tub’ they have.

India River
Rivers in India: Bathtub, washing machine, dish washer and elephant tub

And there I was, complaining that our guesthouse didn’t have hot water. These things just stick with you and you’ll never take anything for granted anymore: running water, hot water, a toilet with a flush button instead of a bucket of water to flush with, and being able to drink water from a tap. Comfy beds, a kitchen, a washing machine, a dish washer and other appliances seem somewhat absurd after what you see in India. India changes your perspective on everything, and makes the things you complain about in your daily life seem pretty laughable. I came back a different person than the one I was before, and I can’t wait to go back to India. Because if you are willing to put up with the strenuous aspects of the country, you’ll be rewarded with the most memorable travel experience of your life.

Beautiful India

Have you had any life changing travel experiences? Share them in the comments below.

read more

Life lately and upcoming travels: July 2014 Edition

no thumb

We used to look back at our travels and reflect on them every one hundred days, but I haven’t done that in a while. I decided to revive these reflections – sort of – by starting a new segment in which I’ll tell you what I’ve been up to lately, how I have been feeling while I’ve been processing the end of my relationship and how my transformation into a solo traveler is going, plus what’s next on my travel agenda. 

Life lately…

I feel like it’s been forever since I wrote my last personal update but that wasn’t even three months ago. It’s funny how much can happen in such little time, how much can change.

garcia lorca poem
City That Does Not Sleep (Ciudad sin sueño) by Federico Garcia Lorca

But let’s start at the beginning. I am still in New York, something I hadn’t planned at all when I boarded my flight to JFK in May. It only took me about two days to realize I would want to stay longer – even though my time in New York started with a disaster. The housesit I came here for fell trough unexpectedly (the owner got sick and canceled her trip) and I had to find a place to stay within 48 hours. If you’ve ever been apartment hunting in NYC, you know that this pretty much impossible. By the end of a full day of room searching, I had exactly ONE lead. But that one, even though it seemed dodgy to meet someone off a Craigslist ad at 10.30 at night, worked out, and it even was on the Upper West Side, the same neighborhood I was supposed to housesit in. Looking back, it was a blessing. I ended up living with two lovely girls for a month who were extremely supportive, always had an open ear and became more than just room mates. It was probably a good thing that I wasn’t living by myself at the time when I was going through some major grieving.

I found another sublet in June and shared the apartment in Bushwick, a Brooklyn neighborhood I fell head over heels in love with, with a German girl (small world!) who I got along with really well. After having an eventful and uplifting first month here and learning how easy it was to find sublets during the summer, I made the decision to extend my stay. I even ended up finding two housesits for this month, plus two more for next month, which meant I got to explore two more new neighborhoods and spend some time with a beautiful dog and a lovely cuddle cat.

central park
The best thing about living on the Upper West Side: Having Central Park right next door!

If you’re following me on Instagram or read my Polaroid posts every week, you already know that I’ve been keeping myself super busy over the last few weeks: from the time-intense soccer world cup (can I just say again… WE ARE WORLD CHAMPIONS!!) and the eccentric Mermaid Parade to al fresco opera and cinema events and an unforgettable 4th July rooftop BBQ, I’ve barely had a minute to relax. There’s more going on in the summer here than I could possibly fit in and I love that I am able to experience over 100 days of spring and summer in New York City.

NYC Summer 2014Closing a chapter

Emotionally, the past few weeks have been a roller coaster. I worked through my breakup and was finally able to close that chapter. The realizations I’ve had during my long runs through New York helped me to see that this was in fact the right decision and that the relationship wouldn’t have lasted in the long run. I learned a lot about myself, and I also grew stronger. Having to face business decisions and issues by myself made me a much tougher person, especially when it comes to decision making and vision developing. Not having anyone to talk things trough with or to hide behind in a business meeting forced me to wear more hats than I thought I was capable of.

Many good things also happened; things that wouldn’t have happened for me if Jess and I were still together. ‘Sometimes change can be good’, a friend recently said, and I have to agree with her. While this was a scary and unknown path at first, I am now embracing the freedom I have and the challenges I am able to take on. Just last week I had a business meeting that I would have never even accepted before, and now I am more than determined to make this collaboration happen. I have not only grown stronger, I have also developed an improved self esteem.

I have to thank New York for a lot, and in a way, I have to thank Jess for a lot. By leaving she made me push the boundaries, push myself to work harder, get out of my comfort zone and take 100 % control over all of my actions.

brooklyn bridge and manhattan skylineExciting travel plans!

Now on to the most exciting news: upcoming travel plans! After having lost my wanderlust for a while, I am happy to report that I’ve got itchy feet again and am up to my ears in travel planning and preparations at the moment. It hasn’t even been two months since I went to Canada, but apart from my short beach getaway that was the only time I’ve left New York City since I got here and I am more than ready for a break from the city!

I am about to fly up to Buffalo and Niagara Falls to get to know Buffalo’s art and architecture scene as well as its foodie culture over the next few days, both of which I’ve been told are amazing. During our quick stint in Buffalo in 2011 we didn’t see much more than a restaurant someone had recommended to us, and I just recently found out that Buffalo is a home to several Frank Lloyd Wright buildings which I’ll be visiting. Also on my agenda: the Albright-Knox Art Gallery, one of only three places in the state of New York that has a Frida Kahlo painting (one of my favorite artists), in addition to countless other renowned artists. I am looking forward to  contemporary art, getting to know some of the city’s neighborhoods – and of course Niagara Falls! After being only able to visit the Canadian side during our two-month visit to Canada three years ago because I left my passport in Ottawa, I am stoked to finally see the Falls from the American side.

You can follow my adventures in Buffalo and Niagara Falls over the next few days on Instagram and Facebook.

niagara falls horseshoe falls canada
Niagara Falls from Canada, 2011

Once I return to New York from Buffalo, I’ll have only five weeks left in New York and I basically have my entire remaining time already mapped out. There is just too much to do and to see in New York – I will never get around to ticking everything off my list. I hope I’ll find time for another getaway upstate or the beach, and I will have friends come visit me here.

I won’t have time to rest when I leave New York – I’ll head straight into my next adventure, which involves a big trek. While I had my September travel plans all planned out, an intriguing travel opportunity came my way and might see me travel to an entirely different (and new) destination. I will reveal more details as soon as everything is set in stone but no matter which plan will work out, either one will involve a major hike. I will share more about these plans in my next update.

watching the sunset in sandy hook

If you have any tips for my trip to Buffalo and Niagara Falls, please feel free to share them in the comments below!

read more

Facing my fear of heights in Whistler, Canada

no thumb

I remember standing on top of the Eiffel Tower and how my knees turned to jelly when I looked down. How my heart rate doubled when I was walking across the bouncing suspension bridge over the Rio Grande Gorge in New Mexico last year.

One of the worst experiences was walking along the indoor balcony of Mexico City’s Fine Arts Palace, where only a small balustrade keeps people from falling down onto the ground floor. Just coming somewhat close to that balustrade caused me to nearly hyperventilate. Even being inside of high buildings is enough to make butterflies swirl around in my tummy – not the good kind though… More like thousands of annoying little ants running around my intestines. Reading this story about the floor of the glass bottom viewing boxes in Chicago’s Willis Tower cracking was enough to give me sweaty palms.

I remember how everyone was hanging out in that box the last time we went up there to enjoy the views over Chicago, seemingly careless and happy about the thrill of seeing the street right below their feet, and me just wanting to pull them all out of that damn thing, sweating heavily and my heart racing.

Willis Tower Chicago Glass Bottom

My fear of heights is bordering on a panic of heights. The edge walk on top of Toronto’s CN Tower? My nightmare. Abseiling from the highest building in La Paz? Horror. Walking on a tiny walkway hundreds of meters above an abyss? Unthinkable. And just looking at the height in these pictures of the world’s tallest rope swing make me feel like throwing up. Bungee jumping o skydiving? Only over my dead body.

death road bolivia
But then I did this recently. Don’t ask! I’ll be sharing the full story behind this photo soon.

And yet, here I was, standing on the lowest step of a set of stairs that led into nothing but thin air, about to step off it, into… nothing. The ground hundreds of feet below me (apparently the height is equivalent to a 20-story building), and I was only hooked to a small metal snap hook via a thin rope that was holding my harness (and my entire body weight!), connected to an over 2,000ft long steel rope; the end of it not even visible from our starting point. What the hell was I doing here?!

Rease Ziplining
Not everyone was as terrified as I was. Certainly not Rease!

This wasn’t my first attempt at zip-lining. The first one in 2007 seemed even more pathetic now that I was about to whiz from one mountain to another with speeds up to 90kmh/55mph. Back then, Jess and I were visiting Cornwall and were invited to try out a brand new zip line off a cliff over a beach – one single short zip line, and we’d be lowered to the ground (which was much closer to the zip line than this one) after a quick 20-second ride. We were standing next to each other on the parallel steps, counting down: three, two, one… And neither of us let go. This went on for about fifteen minutes until we eventually jumped off the cliff (literally), even though we were both terrified and convinced that we were stupid for doing this. I felt sick to my bones all day after that.

Fast forward seven years and here I am on a parallel zip line again, this time about to jump off a stair that leads into the air, and four more ropes like this one after that.

Admittedly, I wasn’t here because my idea of an awesome afternoon in Whistler involved whizzing through tree tops, but because the fab team behind the Great Coast Road Trip had arranged this activity for us two adventurous girls. And at the time, it had seemed like a splendid idea. Now that I was actually about to jump off these stairs, not so much anymore. Like, not at all. Could I possibly chicken out?

dani ziplining

When the first two people went, I felt my heart sink to my boots. I told Rease we’d had to go soon after – I knew that if I waited too long, my fear would turn into panic and there was no way I would be able to let go once that happened. The next two people went, and we were up next. I felt like crying. Why do people do this, I thought to myself. Rease on the other hand was beyond excited and couldn’t wait to go. I had to do it. Back in Cornwall, it was just the two of us – we could have chickened out – but here was a whole group that was in search of a thrill, which meant if I would take as long as I took in England, I’d slow down (and annoy) the whole group.

dani ziplining in whistler canada

Three, two, one… And I let go. My heart skipped a beat as I sped off into the unknown – truly the unknown, because you couldn’t see the other side – down the line, faster and faster, the giant gap between me and the ground always right in front of my eyes. A million thoughts raced through my head, from ‘Oh my god the rope is gonna snap, I will die’ to ‘I really want to see a bear.. Is that one down there?!.. Not so fast!!’ to ‘WTF am I doing here!?’.

ziplining whistler

When we, after what seemed like an eternity but in reality was probably not more than 60 seconds, finally reached the other side, I could barely feel my legs. I was so shaky that I was almost not able to walk. For a moment I thought I might pass out.

dani ziplining

All I could think was: I have to do this four more times. Instead of facing my fear only once, I had to go through this nightmare five times. This was insane!

The rest of the group had a blast. The faster, the better, it seemed, and people were even zipping hanging upside down (hi Rease, you daredevil!), with their arms spread wide open, enjoying the exhilarating thrill of flying through the air. For me, every ride was basically like this :

*You can turn on the sound to hear my terrified screams by clicking on the speaker symbol in the left hand corner of the picture*

You would think it’d get easier with each time, but it didn’t. Each and every time I was convinced the rope would snap, and I would reach the other side shaking. I only wanted to make through it…. Which, in the end, I did.

Was it the most horrible thing I’ve ever done? Probably not. Would I do it again? Probably not. But it also wasn’t the worst thing I’ve ever done – and I faced my fear.

What’s your biggest fear? Have you faced it?

***
Thanks to Rease for capturing my terrified face and screaming.
read more

A Canada road trip, a guidebook giveaway and the chance to win a free hotel stay (up to $250 value)!

no thumb

Most of you know that I’ve had a rough couple of months and I thought it is time for an update on how I am doing and my upcoming travel plans!

Up next: A Canada Road Trip

As this article goes live, I am on my way to Vancouver, Canada, for a quick getaway to British Columbia! I haven’t been to Canada since 2011, and never made it to the West Coast, so I am excited to finally get to know that part of the country.

My friend Rease and were invited by Coast Hotels to road trip through Western Canada on the Great Coast Road Trip, exploring Vancouver and Whistler and some places in between. The road trip is part of a month long interactive road trip campaign hosted by Coast Hotels that takes travelers across Canada and down the U.S West Coast. In total, the car will visit 21 cities spanning 2,650 miles (but we are only driving a fraction of it).

If you have any recommendation for British Columbia, and Vancouver specifically, please share them in the comments below!

great coast road trip car
Look out for this car to win a road trip!

Win your own road trip!

If you happen to be in Western Canada or on the West Coast of the U.S. and spot the road trip car somewhere during the #greatcoastroadtrip, make sure to snap a picture of it and share it via Twitter, Facebook or Instagram using the hashtag and you could win your very own road trip along one of the legs of the road trip. This could be the leg we’re driving (Vancouver – Whistler – Tsawwassen), Seattle – Portland in the U.S., or from Yellowknife to Whitehorse in Canada’s beautiful Yukon Territory, to name just a few. You can find more details on the contest and the prizes here.

I am still undecided if I will head down to Seattle from Vancouver after the trip or fly straight back to New York City, and leave Seattle for a whole other trip which would include Portland and a few other places in the Pacific North West.

canada flowers

You can follow my Canadian adventure live on Instagram #GreatCoastRoadTrip!

The past few weeks…

The past few weeks have certainly not been easy, but I feel like I am making good progress. Coming to New York was the right decision. On my first morning I went for a long run along the East River and while I was soaking up the spring scents around me, I already felt a bit lighter emotionally. I just love this city and there’s at least one moment every day when I try to figure out how I’ll be able to spend more than just a couple of months here – every year! (I’ve got some ideas though…)

My daily runs have been helping me to clear my mind, to finally come to terms with the breakup and to come to some important realizations that help me in my healing process (that’s a whole post in itself though). I made a pact with myself to be social every day, even on those days when I feel like I don’t want to see anyone at all. No more hiding under the covers – I am in New York after all. Luckily it’s not difficult to find something to cheer me up here when I feel a wave of sadness coming over me. It is not always easy to go out and meet new people when you’re feeling like you’re not your best self, but I have never come home thinking ‘I wish I hadn’t gone out’… I am always glad I went.

I’ve also been taking a lot of time for myself, allowing me to figure out what I really want for the future. Life threw me not one, but two curve balls, and I haven’t struggled like this ever before. I promised myself to do at least one thing every day that makes me happy… and so far, I’ve been doing pretty well. I ran my first 10k (a shorter race that I had wanted to do, but the Brooklyn Half, the race of my choice, had been sold out already), I stuffed myself with my favorite NY pizza, I had too much overpriced coffee (but so worth it!), I explored Bushwick’s street art scene, I walked on a carpet of cherry blossoms, I had friends show me around their neighborhoods, danced the night away, went to see stand-up comedy, picnicked in the Botanical Gardens, visited my favorite markets, went to the movie theater, saw plenty of beautiful sunsets over the Hudson River (a perk of living on the Upper West Side!), and made plans to see a Broadway show next month.

New York City May 2014

As for the website, I am still getting used to running it by myself and am taking my time with it. I am slowly finding my way as a solo Globetrottergirl and am in the process of making concrete travel plans for rest of the year (stay tuned, I will reveal them soon!).

Win a free hotel stay!

There is a new hotel booking website on my radar – Travelpony.com. I’ve been using them quite a few times now and am impressed with their ability to offer absolutely mind blowing hotel rates! I used the site to find cheap rooms in Berlin in March and when I planned my trip to New York, when I realized that I hadn’t booked a place to stay just six days before my departure date – of course all the good rates and best places to stay were gone by then. Travelpony.com, however, managed to score a deal at a Marriott that HALF the price of what all the other booking websites were quoting! I double checked all the major booking websites and every single one showed me the price per night that Travelpony.com showed me for two nights. All you have to do to get these superb rates is mention Travelpony.com in your social media network, i.e. on Facebook, Twitter or LinkedIn. Since I am so blown away by the prices the site finds, I am happy to mention them on social media – who doesn’t like to brag about an amazing bargain?!

travelpony tell your networksI don’t know how they get these crazy cheap rates, but I used Travelpony again for my Canada trip and because I love the site so much, I am excited to share the chance to win a hotel stay worth up to $250 through Travelpony.com! They are not giving away just one hotel stay, but one winner is drawn every Friday throughout June! So make sure to enter several times to increase your chances to win 🙂

Here are the details for this awesome contest:

 

Where in the World is TravelPony
Enter to win a free hotel stay by guessing where in the world the TravelPony is!
While The Big Travel Sites spend Billions on TV commercials and traditional advertising, TravelPony offers way better prices on hotels when you share them with your friends. Just tell one of your social networks about TravelPony.com and save hundreds on your next trip!

TravelPony will be drawing a winner for a free hotel stay (up to $250 in value) every Friday in June 2014! Just guess where TravelPony is in the photo below to enter. Plus – tell us where you heard about this contest and you’ll receive an extra entry!

Where is TravelPony?

a Rafflecopter giveaway
 

Guidebook giveaway!

I also teamed up with DK’s Eyewitness Travel Guides again – I was already raving about their guidebooks last year when we used their Santiago guidebook to explore Chile’s capital and am currently using their updated New York City guidebook to find some spots I haven’t been to yet. I will write more about the hidden gems I found through the book shortly (hint: there are quite a few!), but for now, I’d like to give away a package of four of their updated guidebooks:  

Italy • Paris • London • New York City

DK Eyewitness Guides 2014 I am tempted to enter the giveaway myself since all four are places I know I will visit over and over again and I would love to explore them with an DK’s Eyewitness Travel Guide in my pocket, knowing that it will add to the experience. What I loved about their Santiago Guide was how visual it was, with color photography and beautiful 3D maps, ideas for walks and generally just a much more attractive and shiny design than your average guidebook. When I read somewhere that I should check out Church So-and-so, I am usually just bored, but seeing a stunning photo of said church in a DK’s Eyewitness Travel Guide will definitely get me interested. The revised versions of the guidebooks also include city guides with day trip itineraries as well as itineraries based on the length of stay or a certain theme, updated restaurant and hotel listings, detailed street maps (even pointing out the best viewing points!). The only thing you have to do is leave a comment and tell me which one of those places you’d really like to visit – a winner will be randomly chosen via Random.org and he or she will receive all four guidebooks! DK Eyewitness New York City If you’d like to enter the giveaway, leave a comment with the guidebook of your choice by 15 June 2014 (note: the winner will receive all four guidebooks).

read more

Heartbroken… again.

el nido sunset7

I will never forget the moment when the doctor told me she wouldn’t make it through this. That I would lose her. The poignant look in his eyes, the monotony in his voice. I felt like someone had ripped my heart out of my chest; I felt it hit the ground and break into a million pieces. I was sitting on my grandma’s hospital bed, holding her hand.

And then I started to cry. Tears started streaming down my face and I couldn’t stop sobbing for the next hour. My grandma stroke my hand, saying over and over again ‘Don’t cry.’ ‘Don’t cry.’ I was supposed to comfort her; she was the one who had just been told that she hasn’t got much longer to live, and yet she tried to calm me down. She had always been the strong matriarch of the family, only looking ahead, and not back. Even when my grandpa, her husband, died of cancer, and when she had to help my mother through her divorce. She was always there for anyone in the family who needed help. I couldn’t bear the thought of another loss this year.flowers botanical garden brooklynNever having been close to my mother (who most of the time doesn’t even know where in the world I am), and never having met my father, my grandma was the only person in my family who I would look up to and who I wanted to be proud of me. She certainly didn’t approve of me leaving my corporate career and travel to not-so-safe places like Mexico, India or Guatemala, but when she saw how happy my travels made me and that I was able to build a new career around this unconventional lifestyle, she was happy for me. And proud.flowers botanical garden brooklyn. nycjpgMy sister had told me that in recent years, whenever people visited my grandma, she made them read the latest postcards I had sent her. A postcard from the places I visited was the only thing she ever wanted, and she made sure to remind me each time we talked on the phone to send her one. It was probably her who gave me the travel bug, taking me on my first international trip when I was only three years old, just over the border from East Germany into the Czech Republic, but I remember that it felt like the greatest journey. Until I started school, my my grandma and my grandpa would take me with them whenever they went on vacation. I used to spend my entire summer holidays at their house and listen to her travel stories. Looking at her hundreds of vacation photos (some dating back to the 1930s) was something I would do every time I spent time I visited her, up to the day she died.flowers brookyn botanical garden new yorkWhen I called her from places like Panama or Patagonia, she usually knew already most things about that place. Geography and far away countries were some of her hobbies, and whenever she didn’t know much about the place I was in, she eagerly asked me questions about the country. She spent most of her life behind the ‘Iron Curtain‘ and wasn’t able to venture far until the wall came down, but she sure had the travel bug. Even last year, at 82, she still took the train all by herself halfway through Germany to visit the Frankfurt Opera. It seemed like nothing could ever stop her.flowers brookyn botanical gardenThe cancer came so sudden, so unexpected, I still cannot wrap my head around how fast everything happened, how quickly she deteriorated. Within a month of being diagnosed with cancer, she passed away. Gone.. within weeks. Earlier this year, she had the best time when she met her brand new great grandson for the first time and had all her grand kids and great grand kids in the same room. There was no sign of sickness or weakness.flowers galore botanical gardenThis showed me once again though that you just don’t know if there’s a tomorrow. My grandma would have turned 83 years old this month, and she still had places on her ‘bucket list’. Don’t put your dreams on hold. Live them now. My grandpa was another example for this – he had been working all his life towards his retirement, planning to finally fulfill all his travel dreams and enjoy life. He died of cancer only a few months into his retirement. Don’t wait. You never know what is going to happen tomorrow.flowers botanical gardensLast week I went to the Botanic Garden in Brooklyn to see their spring flower display when suddenly, I was overwhelmed by emotions. All I could think about was my grandma; how much she would have loved it there. Visiting flower shows around Germany with her girlfriends had become one of her favorite pastimes after she retired. And seeing her own garden in full bloom was what made her the happiest. Sadly, she couldn’t see the massive cherry tree in her garden in full bloom again this spring before she passed away, but every time I went to her house to check on it’ I took some photos to show her in the hospital bed which flowers and trees had come back to life.Spring 2014

Tears were running down my face while I was sitting in the gardens, smelling the flowers that she would’ve all been able to name. I kept telling myself that the way things happened, they were best for her. Her pain was almost unbearable, but short. She didn’t have to suffer long, and she got to see my sister and my brother, her great grandchildren and me several times before she got severely ill.

I hope she is watching over me from a better place. Even though my heart is hurting more than it has ever hurt before, I will be strong. Because she would have been strong.

You are dearly missed, grandma.

Oma and her great grandson

read more

A new chapter

no thumb

This is probably my 400th attempt at writing this post. So far, I have failed every time I tried to put my thoughts into words, but I feel like I need to finally talk about the changes in my personal life and on Globetrottergirls.

You might have noticed that Jess has vanished from the site over the last couple of months. Some of you have already suspected it, and some of you even got in touch and asked what was going on (I appreciate your emails). The ones among you who suspected it were right – Jess and I are not together anymore.

Jess decided to end our relationship and to leave Globetrottergirls quietly, which I respect. I won’t lie – this break up has been the worst thing that has ever happened to me and I am still struggling to come to terms with it. I have been trying to write about it for weeks, but always ended up with many tears and few written words. My heart is broken, I am still extremely shaken up and it will take me a while to get over this.

What happened?

We had just overcome the effects of a horrible sickness and a somewhat frustrating travel experience in Bolivia, but were on a high again in Peru where we fell in love with Cuzco and went on to have one of the most rewarding travel experiences of all of our travels: finishing the five-day Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu.

dani and jess at machu picchu
The last picture of us as a couple: Reaching Machu Picchu after a five day trek through the Andres

Just a few days later, we had an argument that blew up to such dimensions that I found myself on a plane to Germany a week later while Jess flew to her family in Chicago. Those first few days were nothing but a big blur, I don’t remember much of what was going on around me.

In February, there were days when I thought I wouldn’t make it through this, followed by days when I was even able to pursue business endeavors for which the seeds had been put in my head a long, long time ago. Terrible lows were followed by extreme highs, but then followed by terrible lows again.

I finally pulled myself together and an amazing group of friends, some of which I had long forgotten and neglected until my unexpected visit to Germany, helped me with their incredible support, words of wisdom and encouragement, getting me to begin to think I’d make it through this.

Even now, after some time has passed, I am still not able to talk about what exactly happened between me and Jess – the pain still sits too deep – but I am sure I will talk about it when I am ready as part of my healing process. For now, I just want to say that she did have reasons to leave, of course, and not unfounded reasons. I didn’t see the end of our relationship coming at all, and would be lying if I said I wouldn’t still be in shock about the abrupt break up. I was convinced that this relationship was going to last forever, and am realizing now, with some distance to everything that happened, that I was blind to many warning signs and that my image of this seemingly picture-perfect relationship was somewhat distorted. Even if you spend 24/7 together for nearly four years (we actually had a 24/7 relationship longer than we had a ‘normal’ relationship), run a business together, live your dream and travel the world together, your ideas and visions for the rest of your life can change drastically and drift away from each other.

The only thing I can do now is learn from this dreadful experience that literally shook up my entire world – not only did I lose my girlfriend, but also my best friend, my business partner, my fellow globetrottergirl – and vouch that I won’t be making the same mistakes again in the future.

Dani

What the future holds for me

I made the right decision when I returned to Germany to be with my family instead of continuing to travel through Peru on my own. Even though I barely spent any time with them over the last few years, they were exactly what I needed to get through this. Upon my arrival, I met my brand new nephew who I fell head over heels in love with. My little nieces are so adorable that they are always able to dry my tears – they don’t even know how much they have done for me.

In March, I returned to Berlin, a city Jess and I had chosen as a potential future base for the two of us after falling in love with the city last summer, spent a month there and was happy to discover that I still loved the city just as much, and will probably make it my home base sooner or later.

I took the opportunity to spend a week in Malta last month where I was able to reflect on our relationship and the break-up, finding closure and also rediscovering my love for travel and exploring new places, something that had disappeared after the break up.

For the foreseeable future, I will continue to roam the globe, taking the time I need to heal and figure out what I want to do with my life. I have to admit that I am not a good solo traveler and it will take me a while to transform from a ‘couple traveler’ into a ‘solo traveler’.

When I was offered a housesit in New York City (where we had a housesit together last May/June) I didn’t think about it twice and will be spending the next couple of months in the city I’d move to in a heartbeat. New York City is easily my favorite place in the world, and I am hoping that spending time in a place I love and I am familiar with will not only help me heal but also help me ease in becoming a solo traveler. I am actually getting ready for my flight to New York as this post goes live.

New York New YorkI am not sure yet where I’ll travel to after the housesit, except for a short road trip through British Colombia (more details on that soon) and a quick getaway to the Pacific Northwest. I have a million ideas but at the moment, my travel plans change on a daily basis. I am still taking it day by day, and I am confident that something will come up and lead me into the right direction.

The future of Globetrottergirls

After this unexpected change in my life, not only the plans for my future have been changing on a daily basis, but also my plans on what to do with this website. In the beginning, I had a breakdown every time I published a post on a place we visited together, and had a hard time looking at the pictures and video footage of our last adventures as a couple. I wasn’t sure I wanted to keep the site, but realized quickly that I can’t picture my life without Globetrottergirls. I will continue to share my last trips with Jess, but will also begin to share my own travels as I transition into being a solo female traveler. The stories of our last trips as a couple deserve being told, too, which is why I will sprinkle them in over the next few weeks, whenever I am ready to share them, since it is still extremely painful for me to go through those pictures and relive the good times we had.

The emails and comments I’ve been receiving were a big part of what kept me going over the last few months, what kept me sane and helped me rediscover my love for writing, sharing stories and help you plan your own dream trip, and I wanted to take the opportunity to thank everyone who emailed asking for travel advice, telling us we’d inspired them to go on their own dream trip, or just checking in to see if everything was okay with us.

If any of you would like to get in touch with Jess, please just shoot me an email and I’d be happy to forward you her contact details.

read more

Behind the scenes: How bloggers like us diversify income streams

no thumb

There is a lot going on behind the scenes of GlobetrotterGirls.com, and much of it has to do with the business of blogging. We don’t often talk about how exactly we make money from our blog, but since the question keeps coming up, we decided to share about the income streams we have related to this website, as we realize that most people, our readers included, don’t have a clear picture of how we earn a living as bloggers.

Originally, this site was meant to be an outlet for Jess to improve her travel writing skills with the pressure of it being a public forum, in order to push her to get better, and an outlet for me to showcase and improve on my photography. We both had freelance positions with corporate clients – Jess as a freelance writer and I was doing headhunting work on a project basis. Although Jess dreamed of writing creative travel stories instead of promotional corporate travel industry content, and using the blog as a reference for pitching traditional media outlets, our work was steady and we earned well. Blogging was something we didn’t take very seriously – at first.

After six months or so, we received an email from an advertiser whose client wanted to pay us a small fee for the placement of their company logo on our site. The income didn’t compare to our own client work, but we saw the potential. What if we weren’t distracted on working for someone else, and we could make money with our own site, we could focus all our attention on writing about what we love.

Money

Advertising and advertorials

At first the advertising was only on a reactive basis, side money that helped pad our pockets but since then we have come in contact with an incredible amount of opportunities, just like any publication on or offline does. While we are pitched from every industry under the sun, we keep all advertising travel-related, both the logos we display as well as content written specifically for companies – as long as it is 100% in line with our requirements.

The more we were able to focus on GlobetrotterGirls and let smaller freelance projects go one by one, we improved all of our skills – writing, photography, even learning to edit and share video and audio. Even more important for us was that we were able to really display our expertise about certain regions of the world. This was key in leading to several other projects, beyond the blog, which has become a platform for freelance work and co-operations based on what we are passionate about, rather than relying on corporate writing or advertising income.

eBooks

A year into our travels, we were asked to contribute a chapter to the book The Art Of Couples Travel by Indie Travel Media. As a lesbian couple who travels full-time and writes about it, we have been able to fill a niche for publications looking for more information on this under-publicized niche.

Another major area of expertise for us has been Housesitting, of course, and we published our own ebook, Break Free – The Ultimate Guide To Housesitting, in the Amazon Kindle store at the end of last year. If you have a specific topic that you rate yourself an expert in, self-publishing an eBook is a great way to grow your income, because you only have to put the effort into writing it once, but will get royalties from it every month after publishing it.

Writing gigs

Visiting cities around the globe gave us great knowledge of things like which accommodation to book, how to best get from A to B, how much to budget for the day, how long to spend in each place. Our expert knowledge led to several writing gigs for other websites, publications and, most recently, creating travel itineraries for a promising new travel app.

Social Media Campaigns and Copy Writing

There are several networks that connect bloggers and businesses in a way that makes it easier for bloggers to plug in to additional income streams. Many companies are aware that bloggers have a unique combination of strong writing skills, a built in audience, a publishing platform of their own and knowledge of social media channels as well. Bloggers are not only writers and photographers, possibly video and audio editors, but also marketing and promotional experts as well.

My pitch to a small business that was looking for someone to build up their social media following and manage their Twitter, Facebook and other accounts led to a steady monthly gig – thanks to our blog and social proof that they could see in our social media engagement.

If you don’t know how to go about finding clients, signing up with one of these networks is the best and easiest way to make businesses aware of you, your skills and your website. Hirebloggers.co.uk, for example, is a platform that puts brands in touch with bloggers. They have successfully arranged a three month contract helping build and manage a company’s Facebook and other social media accounts – for £800 a month, as an example. Other campaigns include promoting companies’ competitions and offers, getting involved in helping them write good content, research, and more.

hirebloggers

Freelance projects

Projects like the ones mentioned above clearly leverage the skill set acquired through blogging, but you might not be interested in freelance work that relates to your blog – you might have other skills that allow you to work from anywhere. If you are a web developer for example, a graphic designer, an SEO specialist or a branding specialist, you might want to register with freelance websites such as PeoplePerHour, eLance or Odesk. Some people also prefer to teach a language or tutor math students – also something that can be done remotely via Skype these days (a popular platform that connects tutors and students is BuddySchool.com), and others enjoy organizing the life of others by being a virtual assistant to companies. Both of us have been using freelance websites to get additional work – Jess got several writing gigs and I found work in my previous profession, as a recruiter, as well as market research and social media and blogging related work.

Some things to consider…

As you see, the direct advertising income that Globetrottergirls.com makes us is only one of many ways that support us, but all the other work we do is now related to our website in one form or another, which has allowed us to let go of the freelance gigs we had when we left England over three years ago.

Our advice is to diversify your income streams – don’t rely on only one. We don’t ever know how much money we will make by the end of the month, how many projects we get, how much advertising and how many books we sell. It can be nerve-wrecking not to know how much money we will have at the end of each month, but it is always enough to continue our lifestyle, a freedom we would never exchange for a steady paycheck!

read more
1 3 4 5
Page 5 of 5
css.php