Last Updated on March 6, 2026
When I planned my whale watching trip to Baja California, I tried to figure out which would be the best places to go to see the grey whales during their migration (February and March are the best months to have a successful whale encounter).
My research brought up three lagoons that the grey whales like to hang out in:
- Magdalena Bay / Bahia de Magdalena
- Laguna San Ignacio
- Lagunar Ojo de Liebre
Magdalena Bay was the furthest south of the three, and since I was traveling north from La Paz, naturally, it made the most sense for me to stop there first. Magdalena Bay stretches over 175 miles, there are mangroves and barrier islands protecting it from the open sea, and that’s what is pulling the whales toward this place. The three villages closest to Magdalena Bay that have whale watching tours are Puerto Chale, Puerto San Carlos and Puerto Lopez Mateos.
Puerto Chale is a little closer to La Paz (178 km / 110 miles) – around 2 hours and 15 minutes by car; Puerto San Carlos is 267 kilometers / 166 miles) from La Paz – around 3 hours and 15 minutes by car, or 4 hours 15 minutes by bus (970 MXN). Puerto Lopez Mateos is the furthers north – only around half an hour from Highway 1, with Ciudad Insurgentes being the closest larger town. If you’re coming to Magdalena Bay from Loreto, Lopez Mateo would be the closest port for you, around 2 hours by car from Loreto. From La Paz, it takes around 3.5 hours by car (273 kilometers / 170 miles).
I opted for Puerto San Carlos, because I couldn’t really find any hotels in Puerto Chale when I looked online, but San Carlos seemed to have a few options for accommodation. I went to Puerto San Carlos without booking a tour in advance – all I had booked was my guesthouse.
As soon as I arrived in the village, I made my way over to a couple of places I’d bookmarked on Googlemaps that offered whale watching tours. My hotel had already messaged me via Booking.com prior to my arrival, notifying me of their whale watching tour the next morning, but they didn’t send me any further details and I wanted to compare the various options.
Magdalena Bay Whale Watching came highly-rated, but at MXN2,200 (just under US$130), it was a lot more expensive than the other providers, and the tour itinerary seemed to be the same. My second stop was Friendly Whale Watching Tours, at the Hotel Vista MagBay. Jacibe, the owner, was very welcoming and answered all my questions in detail. It also helped that she spoke English at native level. The price was similar to what my hotel had quoted me (MXN1,600 / around US$93). I felt like I was in good hands here, so I went with Friendly Whale Watching Tours.
The next morning, I woke up at 6am, even before my alarm went off, because I was beaming with excitement about this dream finally coming true. I would see the grey whales! At least if I wanted to believe the signs I’d seen all over town, promising a “100% whale sighting guarantee“.
The boats were already outside the hotel when I arrived – they are put on boat trailers and you board the boat long before you reach the water. Once everyone’s on board, the boat is being pulled down to a beach area on the edge of town by large vehicles where the boats are launched right into the water from the trailer. 
We sped off into the bay, and it would take us around half an hour to get to the part of the bay where the whales like to hang out. Our boat had touched the water at 7:30am, and by 8am, we were experiencing our first whale encounter. Several whales were gliding alongside our boat through the bay, occasionally coming up for air, making themselves known with spouts of water and the accompanying noise of the blowing water.
After following them for a while, we realized that they weren’t interested in any human interactions, and so we kept going. We saw a bunch of boats gathered in one place, which can only mean one thing: playful whales! And yes, there was a very curious grey whale watching a group of tourists on another boat, just hanging out. It was incredible to see the whale poke its head out of the water again and again, letting people touch it, and seemingly curious about the humans who were excitedly exclaiming words in awe and astonishment.
We hadn’t even been out on the water for a full hour when we had some of the most exciting whale interactions of the entire day. There were three or four boats in its vicinity, but the captains kept their distance and let the whale decide which boat it wanted to approach and for how long. After about half an hour, it decided it had enough of us and moved on.
After this amazing start to our whale watching tour, it took us less than half an hour to find another super curious and playful whale. It was really awe-inspiring to watch these massive creatures surround our boats – grey whales can weigh up to 90,000 tons / 40,000 kilograms! They’re also a lot bigger than the small pangas the tour operators use – 40 – 50 feet long / 12 – 15 meters long!
Not even 20 mins after that whale left, we had a whale approaching our boat directly. It let us pat its head before swimming alongside our boat for a while. For the next hour or so, we always had whales near our boat, directly by our boat, or underneath our boat. We had spent nearly three hours on the water at this point, and had so many close-up interactions. We even saw a couple of whales breach pretty close to our boat, which was absolutely breathtaking. I was lucky enough to got some of it on video.
By then, a cluster of boats had formed, and the whale encounters continued, but after a while, our captain decided it was time to break off and move away from the other boats. Since the tours are long, each group gets to decide how to spend the six hours – you have the option to visit mangroves, visit a seal colony, stop and have lunch at a fisherman’s restaurant on one of the uninhabited islands (barring a few local fishermen). We had spent nearly 3 hours with the whales, and the rest of my group, a family and a couple from other parts of Mexico, wanted to change things up a bit and see seals. So we headed to a rocky part of Magdalena Island where a sea lion colony likes to lounge in the sand.
After watching the seals and some seabirds, we headed back into the bay, looking for more friendly whales. And yes, we lucked out again and had several more whale encounters before heading back towards the shore.
We weren’t quite done yet, however: we stopped at a beautiful, completely deserted beach on Isla Magdalena, where we had the chance to get off the boat and walk around the sand dunes, or go for a swim. The water was super clear and very shallow here, which made it a bit warmer than the water in the middle of the bay. It’s still not Caribbean warm, so it’s only for the brave.
Then we stopped at another sea lion colony who squeezed together on a buoy, lazing in the sun, some of them on top of each other, others trying to snatch a spot on the overcrowded small buoy. We watched them for a while, and then continued on to Isla Corazon, a tiny heart-shaped (and aptly named) island where the only inhabitants are bi-ped and winged: dozens of pelicans and cormorants, sea gulls and smaller birds were enjoying the sunny day.
Shortly after our quick stop at Isla Corazon (we weren’t able to get off the boat, just birdwatch from a distance), we found ourselves back on shore. What a day we’ve had! All of us were beaming with joy when we got off the boat. For me, this was just the beginning – I had two more whale watching experiences ahead of me…
Whale watching in Magdalena Bay – tips & practical information
Choose your tour company wisely
When you shop around for whale watching tours, make sure to get all your questions answered.
- How long is the tour? (they are usually around 6 hours)
- What’s included in the tour? (snacks? sun shade? lunch at extra cost?)
- How many people are on the boat? (the max. number of passengers shouldn’t exceed 8)
- Does the captain speak English? The majority of boat captains in Magdalena Bay doesn’t seem to speak English.
- If you have special needs / requirements / wishes, can they be fulfilled? (Toilets? Accessibility. Dietary restrictions…)
Generally, it seems like all the tour providers operator similarly. There don’t seem to be a lot of English-speaking captains in Puerto San Carlos, so if you don’t speak much Spanish, make sure to ask for an English-speaking captain. My Spanish was good enough to understand our captain, who did not speak English. He told me that he communicated with a family from Russia entirely via Google Translate.
Choose a company with decent boats
Ask the company you’re booking with what their boats are like. I noticed a big difference between the boats that had open-front canvas tops, offering shade the entire time, and the boats without any shade canopy. If you find yourself on the latter, that means you’ll be fully exposed to the sun for six hours – I personally was grateful that we had shade the entire time we were on the boat.
Boat with canvas top, vs. boat without any sunshade
Check buses and hotels in San Carlos
If you, like me, travel by bus, check the bus times before booking your accommodation and make sure tickets are available for the days you’re planning to visit. See below for some recommendations.
The same goes for accommodation – since there is a limited number of hotels, it is important to check that there’s availability. For my first night in San Carlos, I snagged the last available room at the posada.
Keep your expectations low
Even though there seems to be a 100% whale sighting guarantee between January and March, I recommend keeping your expectations low. A woman who was staying at my hotel told me that she was a bit disappointed about her whale watching tour, since weather conditions weren’t great (there were strong winds, the sea was very choppy, and it was overcast. Apparently, the whales don’t come up to the surface as much as they do when the water is calm and the sun is shining, and so they didn’t have as many whale encounters as she was hoping for.
I lucked out, because I went on this tour in perfect weather conditions, the water was pretty calm, it was sunny, and the whales felt very social.
Be realistic about the tour
On the topic of expectations: be realistic about what this tour is going to entail. Don’t expect six hours of whales hanging out right by your boat! There’s a lot of time spent just waiting, trying to find whales, waiting for them to approach the boat, trying to find more whales, waiting around again, and riding around in the boat. If this doesn’t sound appealing to you, this tour might not be for you.
Dress warm
When I arrived in San Carlos, I was sweating. It was seriously hot! But another traveler I met upon arriving there, who’d gone whale watching that morning, told me that out on the water, it was freezing. And she was right – the wind was fierce, and the boats head out into the bay (and back) with a very high speed. I wore a long-sleeve zippie, a vest, a scarf, and I had also packed my lightweight down jacket, just in case.
Don’t forget the sunscreen
As I mentioned above, there are two types of boats. If you’re on a boat without a canvas top, you’ll definitely need to reapply sunscreen throughout the day, so don’t just apply it in the morning, but pack it in your day-pack. But even on a boat that offers shade you’ll need sunscreen.
What to pack for your whale watching tour
Snacks
Even though all the tours offer snacks throughout the day, they all seem to offer only cookies and other pre-packed sweet treats, chips, and water. If you prefer fresh fruits, nuts, energy bars or something to drink other than water, make sure to bring it. Six hours on the boat is a long time. I also recommend eating something before the tour, or you may get very hungry after a few hours.
Camera equipment & a safety anti-drop strap for your phone
Pack all the camera gear you have! I used my Nikon Coolpix P950 compact digital camera with an ultra-telephoto 24-2000mm equivalent lens, my underwater camera (on a strap or a handle grip), your phone, and a power bank (I took so many videos and photos that my phone ran out of battery faster than usual!) and most importantly, a lanyard / anti-drop strap for your phone. Trust me on that: you may get so excited when a whale sticks its head out of the water right in front of your boat that you’ll drop your phone in the ocean!
Even with a tight grip, it can happen that another boat rams your boat, causing you to drop your phone, or the whale to nudge the boat, or another passenger in their excitement getting too close to you and maybe bumping into you.. there are too many things that could go wrong here, and six hours out on the water is a long time. You don’t want to lose the photos you take of this once-in-a-lifetime-experience!
Jacket & bikini
That might sound contradictory, but in the morning I definitely needed a jacket, and I only ever felt warm when the sun was fully out. Every time the sun was hiding behind the clouds, I got cold! However, by midday it did warm up enough for the girls to shed their layers. On the way back to San Carlos, we stopped at a secluded beach on Isla Margarita, where it’d be possible to go for a dip if you’re brave enough (the water is quite chilly here in February – but it depends on where you’re from, I guess.)
Toilet paper / some napkins
I don’t know what it’s like on other boats, but our boat did have some sort of camping toilet in the back. I personally did not use it, but with five women on my boat, it was only a question of time until someone needed a “toilet break”. Our captain came to the front while she was doing her business in the back (to give her as much privacy as was possible on a small boat), and then we went on our merry way. If you think you’ll need to use the toilet during the 6-hour tour, pack some toilet paper or some napkins.
Sunscreen
As mentioned above, six hours out on the water is a long time, and you’ll probably want to re-apply sunscreen at some point.
Dramamine / other seasickness remedies
If you’re prone to seasickness, definitely take some medication precautionary. Especially the long rides out into the bay and back are not comfortable, the waves are intense in some places, and people do get nauseous when the ocean is a bit rougher. I’m not sure if you can buy them in San Carlos (stores are very limited), so I’d pick up seasickness medication in La Paz or bring it with you to Mexico.
Cash
If your group opts to have lunch on the island (which is fresh seafood, caught by the fishermen who live on the island), you’ll have to pay them in cash. Also have some cash to tip your captain.
Magdalena Bay overnight whale watching camps
Obviously, you’ll get the most out of your trip if you’re staying overnight and go on more than one whale watching excursion. That way, you’re also guaranteed more whale sightings. As I mentioned above, no two days out on the water are the same, and some tourists luck out with super approachable whales, while others only get to see whales that aren’t interested in any interactions.
Magdalena Bay Whales has a camp on one of the barrier islands right in the bay. This means, if you’re spending the night here, you’re very likely to see whales right from the shore while hanging out at the camp, and possible other wildlife encounters. Just be aware that this “glamping” camp is very basic, don’t expect much in terms of amenities and luxury. You can spend just one night at the camp, or up to 7 nights, if you want to spend a full week with the grey whales (I totally would if I had the funds to do it!). A 1-night experience starts at around US$650 (including whale watching, accommodation and meals), but check the website for current prices.
When to go whale watching in Magdalena Bay
The best time to see whales is February. The grey whales usually arrive in late January and stay through late March, but if you want to be on the safe side, head to Magdalena Bay in February. Unfortunately, it’s hard to predict the whales’ behavior and the numbers in which they show up, but if you reach out to the tour operators before booking your tour, they’ll be able to tell you exactly how many whales are around.
How much time to spend in Puerto San Carlos
Most people seem to spend only one night in Puerto San Carlos – typically the night before the whale watching trip, since it starts at 7am. I wouldn’t have wanted to drive for hours (Loreto and La Paz are both around 3 hours from San Carlos) after spending more than 6 hours on a boat. Keep that in mind when you book your accommodation.
Two nights was plenty though, since there’s not that much to do in the village. I spent the afternoon walking all over San Carlos, exploring the village, the bay, had a frappe at Ola’La Coffee, sorted through the hundreds of photos I took on the tour and re-watched the videos I took with my phone.
How to get to Puerto San Carlos, Baja California Sur:
By bus
Autobuses Aguila runs one bus per day from La Paz to Puerto San Carlos, currently leaving at 2:05pm, and arriving in San Carlos at 6:20pm. Check the website for the current schedule and price. In February 2026, a ticket was 970 MXN.
Alternatively, you can take any bus that travels up and down Highway 1 to Ciudad Constitucion (note that on the Buses Aguila website, this stop is written “Cd Constitucion”). From Ciudad Constitucion, there’s only one road to Puerto San Carlos, and you could hitchhike there (takes about 1 hour).
The bus from Puerto San Carlos to La Paz leaves at 7am and arrives in La Paz at 10.50am.
By car
If you travel to Puerto San Carlos in your own vehicle, take the turnoff to Puerto San Carlos in Ciudad Constitucion.
There was no shortage of available parking when I visited San Carlos.
By plane
The closest airports are Loreto (2.5 hours) and La Paz (3 hours 15 mins). Both are well connected with Magdalena Bay via decent roads – I’d recommend renting a car.
Organized Magdalena Bay Whale Watching Tours from Cabo, La Paz or Loreto
It is possible to book Magdalena Bay Whale Watching Tours from Cabo San Lucas (overnight), La Paz (a 10-hour tour), and from Loreto (an 8-hour tour). Booking a tour from La Paz and from Loreto means spending many hours in a van, plus sitting in a boat for several hours – it’s not going to be the most comfortable day in your life, but if this is your only chance to see the whales, then absolutely make it happen. Here are some of the available whale watching tours on GetYourGuide:
Where to eat in Puerto San Carlos
Don’t expect gourmet cuisine in this small fishing village. There is some really good seafood in this town, and you’ll find several small family-run restaurants with solid Mexican cuisine:
- Tortas Lore – seafood, ceviche, all sorts of fish & seafood dishes
- Restaurant La Choya Grill – top-rated seafood restaurant, BBQ meat, a couple of vegetarian options
- Tacos ‘n’ Drinks – simple but solid taco stall (mostly meat)
- La Pasadita – good breakfasts, meat dishes for dinner, tacos & other Mexican staples
- The Restaurant at Hotel Vista Mag Bay – they open at 6am for early pre-whale watching breakfasts and are open for dinner, too (Steak, lobster, shrimp, fish, Mexican dishes)
- Mariscos El Tiburon de San Carlos – excellent seafood restaurant
- Sunset Restaurant – overlooking the ocean, classic Mexican staples & seafood dishes
Where to stay in Puerto San Carlos
Puerto San Carlos doesn’t have the greatest selection of hotels, and the few that exist book up quickly. Don’t expect a Cabo-style resort here either – this is a dusty fishing town without many tourist amenities.
There are more Airbnb’s than hotels listed in San Carlos – check out the Airbnb’s here.
I recommend booking a place to stay as soon as you lock in your dates.
The best-rated hotels in Puerto San Carlos are:
- Hotel Vista Mag-Bay – small hotel with comfortable rooms right on the shore – balconies overlooking the bay. There’s a restaurant on-site, and a tour agency incorporated in the hotel. The owners Jacibe and Jose speak English and will go above and beyond to make sure you’re well cared for. Double rooms from around US$100 per night.
- Hotel Prado’s – clean and simple rooms, but quite far from the center of town. (no problem if you’re traveling by car.) Twin or double room with terrace around US$70 per night.
- Posada San Carlos – motel-style guesthouse centered around a large courtyard, with an outdoor kitchen that guests can use. On the east side of town, but easy to walk everywhere. A double room is around US$50 per night.
- Casa Kayack – one-bedroom apartment close to the center of town, with a well-equipped kitchen and a patio, and as the name suggests, kayaks for rent! Around US$65 per night.
- Puerto San Carlos Bay House – three-bedroom apartment very close to the shore and the pier. The house has 3 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms, a well-equipped kitchen and a spacious patio. The owners Alicia and Jorge can also arrange whale watching trips for you. The apartment is around US$160 per night.
