Last Updated on May 8, 2025
After a week of getting lost in Cartagena’s colourful, cobblestoned streets, with salsa music spilling out of every bar and maybe one too many arepas in my belly, I was ready for something quieter. Don’t get me wrong, I loved the city’s energy, but I was craving sand between my toes and the sound of waves. That’s when I decided to head to Isla Grande, the biggest island in the Rosario Islands. What I found there was even better than I’d hoped.
Why Isla Grande?
I’d heard about the usual day trips to Playa Blanca or Baru, but they I didn’t want to visit a destination packed with tourists. I wanted somewhere that felt a bit more real, a place where I could actually relax. Isla Grande hit that sweet spot: close enough to the busy city of Cartagena, but still raw enough to feel like a secret.
Here’s what stood out:
- No cars, just sandy paths cutting through greenery.
- Electricity is scarce, mostly from solar power, so it’s a true break from the grind.
- The underwater world is incredible, part of a protected marine park with coral reefs and fish everywhere.
- It’s the kind of place where you can actually feel unplugged from the world.
Oh, and despite the name “Grande,” it’s small enough to walk across in about 30 minutes.
Getting There from Cartagena
The boat ride from Cartagena to Isla Grande is half the adventure. Watching the city’s skyline fade into the distance as the sea stretches out in front of you is something else. Here’s how you can make it happen:
Public Boat
I went with a public speedboat, which cost about 60,000-80,000 COP ($15-20 USD) round trip. They leave from Muelle Turístico La Bodeguita in Cartagena’s old town between 8:00 and 9:30 a.m. and head back from Isla Grande around 2:00-3:00 p.m.
It’s a 45-minute ride, a bit bumpy and crowded with 20-30 people, but the views of the islands popping up on the horizon make it worth it. Show up early to grab a spot, especially in peak season, and don’t forget the 19,000 COP ($5 USD) national park fee.
Private Boat
I met some folks who rented a private lancha for 700,000-1,000,000 COP ($175-250 USD) round trip. If you’re with a group, splitting the cost makes it doable. Plus, you can pick your schedule, stop for snorkeling, and take your time. They were chilling on the beach with coffee while I was rushing to catch my return boat.
Tour Packages
You can book a day trip or overnight package through agencies in Cartagena. It’s convenient if you’re short on time, but I found them too rigid. If you can, skip the tours, book your own boat, and stay at least one night to soak it all in.
Where to Stay
Isla Grande isn’t about fancy resorts or packed beaches. It’s all about simple, natural vibes. You’ve got a few options:
Eco-Lodges
These places run on solar power, with open-air showers and hammocks by the sea. Expect to pay 150,000-350,000 COP ($40-90 USD) per night, usually with breakfast included.
Hostels
For budget travelers, dorm beds start at around 70,000 COP ($18 USD). You’ll share bathrooms and hang out in communal areas, which is great for meeting people.
Homestays
Some locals rent out rooms in their homes. It’s the most authentic way to stay, and you’ll likely get home-cooked meals. Just book ahead, especially from December to April, since spots fill up fast.
What to Do on Isla Grande
The island’s charm is how easy it is to just be. You swim, eat, nap, repeat. But a few things really stood out:
- Enchanted Lagoon: At night, the lagoon lights up with bioluminescent plankton. Swimming through glowing water under the stars felt like something out of a dream.
- Snorkeling: The coral reefs are bursting with fish. Most places can set you up with gear or a snorkeling trip.
- Mangrove Canoeing: Rent a canoe and paddle through the mangroves. It’s calm, and you’ll spot birds and get a feel for the island’s ecosystem.
Getting to Know the Locals
Isla Grande has a small community of about 800 people, and they’re what make the place special. I loved chatting with folks, trying fresh seafood, and hearing their stories. It’s not just a tourist spot; it’s their home, and they’re proud to share it.
A Few Things to Know Before You Go
After three days on the island (which flew by), I learned a few things:
- Bring cash in Colombian pesos. There are no ATMs, and cards are useless.
- Pack light but include reef-safe sunscreen, bug spray, a headlamp, water shoes, and some basic first aid stuff.
- Check if your accommodation provides drinking water. If not, bring a filter.
- Embrace the lack of cell service and Wi-Fi. It’s a chance to disconnect.
When to Go
I went in February, and the weather was perfect: sunny, dry, and calm. December to April is the dry season, ideal but busier and pricier. May to November is quieter and cheaper, but you might get afternoon rain or rougher seas. Keep an eye on the weather in September and October for hurricane risks.
Was It Worth It?
Absolutely. Isla Grande was the perfect escape: pure nature, kind people, and that rare feeling of stumbling onto something untouched. Cartagena’s charm is undeniable, but Isla Grande stole my heart with its simplicity. The boat ride from the city to the island felt like crossing into another world, and that’s exactly what I needed.
What do you think about the Rosario Islands? Let me know in the comments!
