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Medieval Mdina: Stepping back in time in Malta

Medieval Mdina: Stepping back in time in Malta

Last Updated on April 6, 2021

The minute we stepped through the massive gates of Mdina Malta, which are built into the thick sandstone walls, I felt like I had been transported back to the 16th century, when the Knights of St John arrived in Malta and lived in this fortified city, perched high on a hill that made it possible for them to look out over the entire island.

mdina stone lion kings landing

I heard galloping hooves come close behind me and had to jump to the side and press myself against the wall, letting the horse carriage pass by. I wouldn’t have been surprised had a noble lady been sitting in the carriage instead the two wide-eyed tourists who were marveling at the tall sandy buildings that make up the medieval town.

Horse carriages in Mdina Malta

We walked slowly through the narrow alleys, most of which wouldn’t even fit a normal-sized car (in fact, only a limited number of vehicles are allowed to drive within the city walls), and I tried to imagine what it must have been like to live here during the time of the knights.

mdina malta street

Since the city is confined by the thick city walls, it is easy to just stroll aimlessly without worrying that you’ll get lost somewhere. At some point, you’ll always reach a wall. And with only around 400 people living within the walls, Mdina is tiny. 

Mdina actually dates back much further than medieval times – the city goes back more than 4,000 years! Over the centuries, or better, the millennia, the city has been inhabited by the Phoenicians, the Romans, the Normans and the Arabs.
malta mdina door
Apparently it was here where the Apostle St Paul lived in 60 AD after being shipwrecked on Malta, and the St Paul’s Grotto in Rabat (outside of Mdina’s city walls) shouldn’t be missed on a visit to Mdina.
Mdina Malta
The inhabitation of the city by different cultural groups resulted in a fascinating and quite unique mix of architecture which you can still see throughout town– especially the Arab influence.

Mdina in Malta

The other notable architectural influence is Baroque, which arrived in Malta in the early 17th century. Mdina’s grand cathedral is a fine example of this architectural style.

mdina cathedral

I loved how Mdina still feels and looks the same way it would have looked hundreds of years ago, with well-preserved homes and palazzos and historic churches.
mdina building
The town was actually home to Malta’s most noble families, something that hasn’t changed even today.

mdina balconies

Looking at the fancy buildings, passing by the churches and monasteries, I could picture horse carriages waiting in front of the houses for the noble family to head out into the countryside for a day of hunting.

mdina horse carriages

One thing that struck me about Mdina was how quiet it was. Unless you stumbled upon a tour group, the city was as silent as its nickname, The Silent City, promises. Sometimes we would walk through streets all by ourselves, not a single other person in sight, and just enjoy the quietness. Spending most of my time in big cities, I absorbed as much as possible of the peaceful atmosphere.

mdina limestone buildings malta

I wasn’t the only one who noticed the timelessness of medieval Mdina. When the makers of ‘Game Of Thrones’ first set off to find filming locations, they came here and decided to make it the location for King’s Landing. If you watch Game Of Thrones, some of the places in the pictures might look familiar to you.

Entrance gates Mdina Malta

On the recommendation of a friend, we headed to Fontanella, a restaurant right on top of the thick city walls that offers sweeping views over the countryside surrounding the city and far over the Mediterranean Sea. The selection of cakes at Fontanella is huge so if you stop here, make sure to come hungry.

Streets of Mdina Malta

We later learned that we should have come twice to Mdina – once during the day and once at night, when the city is lit only by the historic street lamps. This is when Mdina is truly silent, and painted in a soft golden tone from the street lights, which makes it feel even more like you’ve been transported back to medieval times.

Mdina Malta

Mdina Malta – The Details

How to get to Mdina

You can easily get to Mdina by bus from Valetta (30 minutes) or Sliema (45 minutes). A day ticket is only €1.50 (compared to a single fare at €1.30)!

mdina plaza malta

Where to Eat & Sleep in Mdina Malta

Stop at Fontanella’s for coffee and cake, or at Xpresso Bistro Café, which has equally fabulous views.

There is a number of restaurants inside the city walls.

The Xara Palace, a 5-star hotel inside a 17th century chateau, is the only hotel inside the city walls. There are a couple of hotels in Rabat, just outside the city walls.

Interested in food in Malta? Read: Eating my way through Malta

Mdina Malta

What to see in Mdina Malta

St Paul’s cathedral has an interesting interior, with the floor covered in marble gravestones (similar to St John’s Co-cathedral in Valletta), and is definitely worth going inside!

The Cathedral Museum is home to a small art collection, including a woodcut print of Albrecht Dürer’s The Life of the Virgin.

 

St Paul’s Church and Grotto are located in Rabat, outside of the city walls (a 10 min walk)

The Roman Villa (Domus Romana) is a fine example of Roman architecture with typical Roman mosaic floors, and is also in Rabat.

Door knockers in Mdina Malta
mdina balcony malta
Lions in Mdina Malta
malta mdina palace
Statues in Mdina Malta

Michelle

Tuesday 1st of July 2014

Beautiful photos.

I haven't made it to Malta yet, but my parents have been three times and rave about it. My dad is obsessed with the history of the place and my mother with how much there is to do for such a small place. It's on my list for next year :)

Dany

Wednesday 2nd of July 2014

Your parents are rightfully raving about Malta :) I hope you'll make it there next year, Michelle!

Becci

Saturday 14th of June 2014

Wow how stunning! Malta has just made it on my list :) I don't know how long I could stand the quietness though- I love a good bit of chaos.

Dany

Tuesday 17th of June 2014

Thanks, Becci! Malta is a good escape from the chaos but I admit, I love returning to a hectic place. Felt like that last week when I got back to NYC from the idyllic mountain town of Whistler ;-)

mbtuk

Saturday 14th of June 2014

those beautiful allies and cathedrals are so amazing and remarkable.. lovely post

Ronny

Saturday 17th of May 2014

Just looking at these photos and Malta has already stolen my heart ... can't miss this place on my upcoming tour of Europe!

Dany

Wednesday 21st of May 2014

Ronny - definitely don't skip Malta! I hope you'll enjoy your trip to Europe.

Nick

Saturday 17th of May 2014

I love those photo's of the narrow streets and alleyways!

Dany

Wednesday 21st of May 2014

Thanks, Nick! It's so pretty, really!