close

The grand finale of my Philippines trip: El Nido (Part I)

no thumb

El Nido was one of the two places I was looking forward to the most on my Philippines trip (the other one was Boracay), as everyone who had been there was raving about the unspoiled beauty of the deserted islands off the coast of Palawan, the island El Nido is located on.El Nido PalawanAs I was holding on for my dear life in the van that took me up to El Nido from Puerto Princesa, Palawan’s main airport, I was praying that it would live up to my high expectations, but since Palawan had recently been declared the most beautiful island in the world, I was pretty confident that it wouldn’t disappoint.el nido beach viewWhen I booked my flight to Puerto Princesa, I wasn’t aware that it would take another 5-6 hours to get to El Nido from the airport, which would make this a 16-hour travel day starting in Dumaguete 6am in the morning and reaching El Nido 9pm at night. The hours in the van were some of the most horrible driving I’ve experienced so far, even beating the van driver from Laos to Chiang Mai who fell asleep halfway through, forcing one of us passengers to take over the wheel.bacuit archipelago shell philippinesThis driver surely saw the narrow winding mountain roads of Palawan as his own personal race track, and several times when he accelerated before a sharp turn I was convinced we’d shoot over the guardrail into the woods.el nido las cabanas beachAgainst all odds we made it to el Nido alive, and I realized mistake #2: not booking a hostel in advance. My driver took me to a number of places, all of which were full, and just when I was about to give up hope and thought I would have to spend the night on the beach, I lucked out and got the last single room in a hostel.el nido with boatsWhen I went to explore the town the next morning, I wasn’t all too impressed, to be honest. The beach seemed dirty, and while others might find the ramshackle buildings charming, I just found them.. ugly.el nido kayakBut nobody comes to El Nido for the town. People come here for the Bacuit Archipelago. The archipelago is made of 45 islets, most of them nothing more than limestone karst cliff outcrops surrounded by crystal clear water, some of them boasting secret beaches or hidden lagoons. What all of them have in common is that they offer some of the best snorkeling in the country.bacuit archipelago island hopping tourThe best way to see as many of them as possible? Go on an island hopping tour. There are four different tours which can be booked just about anywhere in town, creatively titled Tour A, B, C and D. The tours are all pretty similar: the boats leave El Nido around 9am and get back around 5pm, include a lunch and 4 to 5 snorkeling stops.bacuit archipelago boatWhen I researched the various tours to decide which ones to go on, I had found that most people were recommending A and C, so those were the ones I went on (I would have loved to hop on all four tours, but El Nido is not the cheapest place to hang around in, and it’s probably good that there is no ATM in town, forcing you to leave when you run out of money).bacuit archipelago boatsI decided to start with tour A and on a rather cloudy morning I hopped on a little Filipino fishing boat to cruise around the islands.seven comandments beach philippinesOur first stop was the 7 Commandment beach, a small sandy beach, fringed by palm trees. The snorkeling area was small and I almost didn’t go in the water because it was still overcast and I thought I might even be cold. But I am so glad I eventually did go in! There were already more fish in this little spot than I had seen in all four of my snorkeling stops in Apo Island. It was like a beautiful underwater plant garden, and I would have been satisfied staying here all day, laying out on the gorgeous beach and going for an occasional snorkeling dip, but this was only stop 1 of 5.Bacuit Archipelago underwaterThe second stop was already our lunch stop, and we spent well over an hour on a tiny strip of sand beach, and the crew was preparing lunch (lots of fresh fish, rice and fruit) while we were sunbathing and snorkeling. The snorkeling area was much bigger than on the first beach, and I loved the marine life here. You could snorkel all the way out to a massive limestone rock that stuck out of the ocean if you were a good swimmer and see plenty of fish everywhere around you.Bacuit Archipelago underwater PhilippinesAfter lunch (very filling if you’re not a vegetarian; leaving you starving if you’re a vegetarian), we moved on to our third stop, a hidden lagoon that we had to swim into, entering via a small hole in the rock. Getting there was a bit difficult because it was extremely rocky – we were all wearing our flip flops or water shoes and were still struggling. Here I could see why Alex Garland’s The Beach was apparently inspired by his time in the Philippines (even though the book is set in Thailand).bacuit archipelago lagoonHe was probably trying to keep the real beach a secret, but in this case, when five boats get there at the same time and fifty people try to make their way in there at once, it is a bit underwhelming. Only at the end, when everybody else had left and the lagoon was almost empty, I came to appreciate the stunning beauty of it with the towering limestone rocks towering high above me.bacuit archipelagoNext was an absolutely stunning stop: First we cruised in a big circle through the Big Lagoon, only open to the ocean on one side, and surrounded by massive limestone rocks on all sides. After that, we stopped outside the lagoon to snorkel in what is best described as a real-life aquarium. The coral, the plants, the fish – so so many fish – it truly felt as if someone had dropped me into an aquarium. I could’ve stayed there forever.Bacuit Archipelago underwater snorkelingThis was only my first island hopping trip in El Nido, and it didn’t disappoint. I was already looking forward to my next one!

For more impressions from Palawan and practical information on how to get to El Nido, where to stay, what to do and other things you should know before you go, check out Part II of this post: The grand finale of my Philippines trip: El Nido (Part II)bacuit archipelago lagoonbacuit archipelago beachbacuit archipelago philippines

Opt In Image
Beyond the Blog: Get updates straight to your inbox!

Keep up with me! Get updates, additional stories that don't make it on the blog, future travel plans, and travel tips. I also answer reader questions and have some pretty sweet travel giveaways exclusive to newsletter subscribers!

Tags : philippines

25 Comments

  1. The Bacuit Archipelago is so amazing but I was disappointed with the town of El Nido too. I made the same mistake of not booking a place in advance. Everything was either full or really expensive. And no one talks about how the main beach in El Nido is murky and not really suitable for swimming. Did you make it to Las Cabanas Beach while you were there? I really enjoyed it. And I did tour A too…it was amazing 🙂

    1. Yes, I was surprised too that I hadn’t read about El Nido’s beach being kinda dirty and me anywhere before I got there! I think most of the sewage goes in the water right there. I did make it to Cabanas Beach and LOVED it! What a gorgeous beach 🙂

    2. During high season, it’s indeed very important to book your hotel or hostel in advance! There’s basically more demand than offer and it’s not rare to see tourists wandering around desperately trying to find an hotel room. What did you eventually (expensive place, or sleeping on the beach… 😛 )?

  2. Thanks for this honest write up! I am going to El Nido in December and am looking into doing tours A and C as well. Any recommendations on which part of El Nido to stay? If the beach in town is dirty, I would rather not stay there. Also, how many days did you stay in El Nido and did you think it was enough? Thanks again!

    1. I have all practical information coming up in part II of this post, which will go live tomorrow, Tausha 🙂 I stayed five nights – relaxed on my first day since I got in too late to book a tour for the next day, otherwise I would’ve hopped on a tour right the next day. Then I took a tour, the day after that I explored the area around El Nido and went to Las Cabanas beach (well worth it) and Sunset Beach (also very pretty), on the third day I took another tour, the next day I left. So I had four full days there. I could’ve spent another day or two to take the other two tours, and other people were renting motorbikes to explore waterfalls and other beaches that were further away. Five nights were just right for me though, anything less than that would’ve felt rushed. Enjoy El Nido 🙂

  3. It looks like a paradise – the white sand, fishermen boats, lagoons! My first thought was that it looked like from The Beach movie and then I read your note that it was an inspiration for the movie 🙂

    1. Yes, it made me want to join the Tao Expedition, a 4 or 5 day boat ride from Coron to El Nido (or the other way around), where you get to see even more deserted islands, secluded beaches and dreamy lagoons. I hope I’ll get to do it one day!

  4. Thanks for the honest feedback of your trip. At first look seems to be amazing then after reading definitely can see why you were disappointed in El Nido.

    1. Well I still loved my time in Palawan!! I was a little disappointed in the town itself, but like I said in the post, nobody goes to El Nido for the town. It’s all about the islands 🙂

    1. You’ll love it, Katie!! Tour B and D looked interesting but one focused on beaches and the other one on caves – I wanted to island hop 🙂 I would’ve loved to do all four! I hope I’ll make it back there one day – but then I’d join a Tao Expedition!

  5. Dany or any other readers-

    If you are willing to pay more money, is there a quicker and better alternative to get from the airport in Puerto Princesa to El Nido to avoid the uncomfortable 5-6 shuttle bus ride?

    Thanks for any assistance.

    1. Hi Mike, if money doesn’t play a role, you can fly straight into El Nido. There’s a small airport there that has 3 daily flights coming in from Manila via Island Transvoyager. Planes are tiny and luggage is limited to 10kg – this includes carry-on! One way is PHP6,750 (US$151). You can book tickets by emailing [email protected]. When flying into Puerto Princesa, there’s no faster way than these vans (even a car service couldn’t be faster than the driver I had) – the buses take even longer (7 – 8 hours).

  6. How gorgeous is El Nido! We did two of the tours and just couldn’t believe the scenery and the colour of the water. AND we had exactly the same near-death driving experience to El Nido!!

    1. I am glad I’m not the only one who felt about that ride the way I did! I’d love to return but just the thought of the ride.. I guess I’ll need to let some more time pass before I think about going back 😉

  7. Yup, the Puerto Princesa-El Nido ride is sure to keep you awake:) BTW, Island Transvoyager has been reborn as AirSWIFT with an online booking engine.

  8. HI. Its been great reading the notes on this part of the world. Thank you ! We are doing the TAO EXPERIENCE. In this case, is it worth a few night in El Nido at the end of the Trip or will it be much the same ? What is the scene in town like… restaurants, bars, bands etc ?? Can you suggest a nice hotel that is well located.

    1. Hi Tracey, yay for the TAO experience! I would spend max 2 nights in El Nido at the end of the trip. Yes, there are a couple of nice bars and restaurants, but especially after the TAO I think you’ll find the beach there disappointing. You could take a trip to another, nicer beach the next day (I believe it was called Sunset Beach?) but other than that, don’t bother with El Nido. And like I said in my post – I had the hardest time finding a nice place to stay at a reasonable price. I usually check Booking.com and only go for places with a rating higher than 8 and good reviews. Please feel free to tell me all about your TAO and make me jealous 😉

Leave a Response

css.php