Monkey business and a beach hunt on Langkawi island, Malaysia

Posted on 15. May, 2012 by in Malaysia

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We arrive in a propeller plane under the cover of night and have no idea what to expect. All we know is that after months of heavy travel, we need this beach escape bad! The question is…will Langkawi let us down like so many of South East Asia’s beaches have so far?

Within 30 minutes of touching down on the Malaysian island of Langkawi, the first lesson we learn is that Langkawi is much larger than we thought. After exploring the main beach for a few days, Cenang Beach, we rent a car, pack our swimming equipment and head out to what we imagine are the dozens of gorgeous white sand beaches around the island. Our hotel is kind enough to arrange the rental process for us…

langkawi cenang beachAn interesting start… 

The next morning, the ‘rental’ car arrives, but this isn’t your ordinary Enterprise or Hertz experience. This very small Malaysian man drops off his very small, personal Malaysian vehicle – complete with KitKat wrappers, Chinese music tapes (yes, actual cassette tapes) and discarded Pistachio nut casings. We honestly don’t notice at first, as we are giddy with the excitement of driving after not having been behind a wheel for so many months. A few minutes ater we have to fill up the tank just a few minutes later (because yes, he delivered it on an empty tank), we realize that this is not the most official rental we’ve ever had.

But why worry! We play the random Chinese tapes until we can’t take it any more. We then opt for silence and watching the sun filter through the jungle canopy and catching glances of crystal blue water in the distance. Suddenly and simultaneously we both shout ‘Monkeys!!’ A family of at least thirty monkeys lines the guard railing on the side of the road, eating, playing and staring right back at us as we gawk out the window on the way past.

langkawi monkey crossingA world record awaits 

Our first stop is the famous Langkawi Cable Car, a trip to the top of a mountain – which promises stunning views over the Andaman Sea as far as to the islands in northern Thailand. Once at the top of the mountain, a world record awaits: the world’s longest curve suspension bridge, a 125-meter long Skywalk, swings softly as visitors cross (holding on for dear life).

Langkawi viewA little further north from the Cable Car station we find the Telaga Tujuh Waterfalls, which turns out to be an 800m hike up the mountain…a steep mountain. Okay, a VERY steep mountain. Already sweating buckets in our semi air-conditioned car, we unstick ourselves and head out into the crazy Malaysian heat and up the seemingly never-ending stairs. The falls are actually all but dried up – it’s the height of dry season – but there are cool pools of water on top we can’t wait to dip into.

langkawi monkeys swimmingAttack of the Monkeys! 

Except…within two minutes of our arrival, we find ourselves again shouting Monkeys! But this time it’s a warning. A gang of monkeys spits at us and chases us out of their spot. We take refuge in a covered picnic area and watch them tumble, play-fight, and swim. Despite their aggression toward us, watching them is really fun – but we definitely tip-toe out and back down the mountain to avoid their attention before setting off to find white sand beaches.

Unfortunately, it is ages before we find any sign of a comfortable beach…we follow the road around to the northwestern point of Langkawi, but if there are any beautiful beaches, they all belong to the luxury resorts we can not quite see, their landscaped properties hidden between the forest and the sea.

langkawi roadInstead we follow a sign to Langkawi Falls, which ends up being a man-made, papier-mâché rock overpass over the road. From far away, this looks like the road cuts right through bedrock, but up close, we see it is no more real than a Flintstones cartoon. Holes in the ‘rocks’ reveal chicken wire and newspaper stuffing on the inside.

One of those WTF moments? Yes.

A total bust? No, but only because back at the car we meet an adorable monkey trying to get in our car. Thanks to our friendly monkey encounter earlier, we stand on guard until, finally, she hops to the ground and gives us the monkey equivalent of puppy dog eyes. She wants food – but we are starving ourselves and have nothing to share. So we slip into the car (she almost manages to get in with us), and head off in search of food and hopefully, a white sand beach.

monkey on our car langkawi
monkey lady langkawiSo… where’s the beach?

Thirty minutes later, tummies rumbling in full force, we finally arrive at Tanjung Rhu Beach, which is just as stunning as we had hoped: miles of white sand, crystal clear water, and only a handful of tourists, but the restaurants are a bit grungy and can not make vegetarian food (so they say) so we continue to starve for an hour or so while we soak up the sun on the beach.
langkawi tanjung rhuThere are two lagoons that meet to create a tangle of rivers and mangroves, which can be visited in small tour boats, but we are hungry, crabby and a bit crispy, so we drive back to Cenang Beach rather than doing any of the tours in the area.

Food, oh glorious food!

When we finally get there, we realize that, after a semi-successful day around Langkawi, Cenang is the best beach of all.

The sand is even whiter than others we have seen, softer like a light powder and the food options are so varied and delicious. On this night we opt for a fancy Italian meal to reward our starving bellies, but most days we split between an affordable organic restaurant and a super cheapie with rice and eggs for $1 down the road from our hotel at the time, the Mali Perdana hotel at the south end of the beach.

organic pasta dish on langkawiWe spend the rest of our time on the island relaxing on Cenang Beach, with the only decisions to make being where to eat for dinner and where to take in the stunning sunsets at night… the perfect vacation – finally!

sunset over cenang beach langkawiTips for traveling on/to Langkawi:

Tip 1: Do not rely on public transportation
This is mostly because there isn’t any public transportation (buses, trains, trams, that sort of thing). Plenty of cabs drive around, and this is a great way to get from one of the beach to the other (it’s a long, hot walk from end to end). But to get from Cenang to the other beaches we visited, taxi rates run between $20-$35 one way.

langkawi cenang beachTip 2: Rent a car
Instead of adding up all those taxi rides, both short and long, we wanted freedom on Langkawi and decided to rent a car. Sure, it may have felt like we were driving around in someone’s personal car. In fact, that was actually the case. But it was RM70, or $23, for two full days’ rental, plus gas.

Tip 3: There are two ways to get to Langkawi
One option is to take the ferry (3-4 hours) from Penang which costs RM60.00 ($20) one-way or RM115.00 ($38) round trip. There is only one ferry and it leave before 8am each day.

We chose to hop on a 25 minute flight instead. Firefly operates several daily flights from Penang and Subang Jaya (a Kuala Lumpur suburb) and AirAsia flights operate between Langkawi and Kuala Lumpur or even to/from Singapore. We booked just 12 hours in advance on Fireflyz.com and paid $30 each for our quick flight.

langkawi cenang beach from the airWhere to stay on Langkawi:

There is a wide range of accommodation on Langkawi, from luxury resorts to backpacker hostels. While the luxe spots are tre chic, we recommend a mid-range or budget spot right on Cenang Beach where all the best food and ‘nightlife’ is centered (party spots are limited on this Muslim island).

Backpacker: D’Bayleaf (Dorms RM25/$8.50)

Mid-range: AB Motel  (between RM80 / $26 and RM200 / $67 per night. The cheaper rooms are across the street from the beach, and the bungalows right on the beach look great.

Melati Tanjung  has rates at RM140 / $43 for beachfront bungalows

Luxury: Casa Del Mar boutique hotel is one of Malaysia’s accommodation darlings

Our pick: Temple Tree is a 5 minute cab ride from Cenang Beach, and one of our top hotel picks ever!

pool at temple tree langkawi malaysiaWhere to eat on Cenang Beach

Payaworks Organic Restaurant has a great selection of vegan, vegetarian and organic meat dishes.

The Breakfast Station has quick, easy excellent breakfasts, both Malaysian and Western.

Oasis Beach Bar on Tengah Beach, just south of Cenang Beach has a wide selection of Western, Malaysian and Indian dishes and is a great spot for sunset.

Beach Garden is on the north end of Cenang Beach. It is German-run and offers very good antipasti platter, plus Western and Asian dishes

nasi lemakHave you been to Langkawi? Do you have any other recommendations to share for a trip to the island? 

 

 

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26 Responses to “Monkey business and a beach hunt on Langkawi island, Malaysia”

  1. Ruth (Tanama Tales)

    15. May, 2012

    Wow, I guess Langkawi is as exotic as one can get. The place looks gorgeous. I would even visit knowing I can get attacked by monkeys any time.
    Ruth (Tanama Tales) recently posted..Brazil’s Dusty Azurre: Day 9 (Scene 2)

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    • jess

      16. May, 2012

      Ha, Ruth! Odds are pretty good that you’re not going ot be attacked. We went out of our way to find them :) If you’re there to chill and relax, there are no monkeys on Cenang Beach (unless you count a few rowdy travelers…)

      Reply to this comment
  2. Ayngelina

    15. May, 2012

    Is it just me or does that monkey in the monkey crossing sign look kinda scary?
    Ayngelina recently posted..Moloka’i’s ghost town

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    • jess

      16. May, 2012

      Totally – I think you’re supposed to be scared of them to a certain extent,so everyone just leaves them alone. We seemed to be the only ones who were very scared, though…

      Reply to this comment
  3. I know getting attacked by monkeys would be horrible, but…. they’re so dang cute!!! I’m sure that doesn’t make it any better, though. =)
    Christy @ Technosyncratic recently posted..The Sheep of Sacoue – Adorable Baby Farm Animals in France

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    • jess

      16. May, 2012

      Hey Christy, we got out of there unscathed, so it wasn’t so bad. In all honesty, we obviously posed no real threat – we were just in their territory! It’s still very much a Monkey Island of sorts!

      Reply to this comment
  4. Scott

    16. May, 2012

    As we told you in Melaka, we totally loved Langkawi as well. We rented a motorscooter for the day and saw plenty of those monkeys on the side of the road, luckily they kept away from us at the waterfall. Wow, that hike was something else, wasn’t it?
    Scott recently posted..Two Tickets To Paradise

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    • jess

      16. May, 2012

      Definitely more of a hike than we bargained for, especially with no food and limited water! But yeah, Langkawi pretty much rocks! We still have to make it over to the Perhentians, though!

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  5. TammyOnTheMove

    16. May, 2012

    Enjoy your beach break. That monkey with puppy eyes looks scarily like Puss in boots in Shrek. :-)
    TammyOnTheMove recently posted..Happy birthday King Norodom Sihamoni

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  6. Steph (@ 20 Years Hence)

    16. May, 2012

    Well, it really sounds like you had an adventure on Langkawi! While I’m sure it was scary in the moment, your monkey stories were fantastic, and since Cenang wound up being the best beach in the end, it doesn’t sound like you really missed out by relinquishing that water hole to them.
    Steph (@ 20 Years Hence) recently posted..Sometimes “quit” is a four-letter word

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    • jess

      16. May, 2012

      Hey Steph – exactly our thoughts! And in hindsights, the monkey experiences were highlights of the whole Langkawi trip, so it was worth it, even if we did almost get attacked…(who’s a drama queen?!) :)

      Reply to this comment
  7. Megan

    16. May, 2012

    Love the monkeys! I know they can make a nuisance of themselves when they get habituated to people, but could they BE any cuter?!
    Megan recently posted..We’re back!

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  8. Bobbi Lee Hitchon

    18. May, 2012

    Everything about this place sounds amazing. Great guide. We might have to squeeze it in on our trip to SE Asia!
    Bobbi Lee Hitchon recently posted..What I’m thinking Friday, 18 May

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    • jess

      20. May, 2012

      Thanks, glad you appreciate it Bobbi – we would definitely recommend a few days out on Langkawi at least. It’s really different than mainland Malaysia!

      Reply to this comment
  9. Wanderplex

    21. May, 2012

    Oh I LOVE the pic of the monkeys swimming/bathing! This looks like such a picturesque locale too :)
    Wanderplex recently posted..To gondola or not to gondola?

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    • Dani

      22. May, 2012

      It was so cute to watch them play in the pools, although we just wanted to get in there ourselves.. but we decided to leave them their cooling spot :D

      Reply to this comment
  10. Jarmo

    22. May, 2012

    I do remember the monkeys from Langkawi, at point I had to make the decision to give up an ice cream to a group of monkeys that got me surrounded. Bastards!
    Jarmo recently posted..Okonomiyaki, the Japanese pancake

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    • Dani

      22. May, 2012

      Haha, yes, they were seriously after our bags when we visited the waterfalls. The monkey that tried to get into our car seemed seriously hungry though and made us feel guilty for not having any food with us.

      Reply to this comment
  11. Monkeys freak me out, but the road trip sounds like fun!
    Jade Johnston – OurOyster.com recently posted..The Best Way To Discover The Pinnacles

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    • Dani

      23. May, 2012

      Thanks Jade, it sure was a fun day!! Jess is freaked out by monkeys too but I just love them!! :)

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  12. dtravelsround

    23. May, 2012

    The area sounds amazing! But, I am pretty sure I would freak out if monkeys started chasing me!!
    dtravelsround recently posted..Dude, don’t get Locked Up Abroad …

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    • Dani

      25. May, 2012

      Well after seeing these people who got their faces eaten off by monkeys on shows like Oprah it’s no wonder that we are so scared of them! :)

      Reply to this comment
  13. Dan @ TeacherGig

    07. Aug, 2013

    I haven’t made it to Langkawi yet, but my Malaysian friends keep asking me to swing by Kuala Lumpur so that we can travel around Malaysia together. Langkawi and Kota Kinabalu are both mentioned often.

    These photos are stunning. If this is what the island really looks like, sign me up! I still haven’t stayed on a beach bungalow (though I’m not sure if they would be up to my girlfriend’s standards), but this place looks pretty convincing.

    Thanks for sharing your story (the ups and downs), and hope you’re having happy, healthy travels together!
    Dan @ TeacherGig recently posted..Preschool Teacher

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  14. Hannah @ Getting Stamped

    17. Jan, 2014

    Were headed to Langkawi in 2 days! Great to find this article!
    Hannah @ Getting Stamped recently posted..Dear Gecko on my ceiling: Please stop pooping on me…….

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    • Dani

      18. Jan, 2014

      Awesome!! We loved Langkawi! Cenang Beach was just so pretty – still one of our favorites in South East Asia! Enjoy the island :)

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